We went body boarding on our local spot, its 1 of the top beachs in perth, we get alot of non locals (including surfers who drop in on you). The beach has a 4 reefs and the main reef produces alot of wedges. Well we went on sunday and the swell was about 2.6m over the reef. I didnt take the reef because I didnt want to get drilled onto it because of sport the next day. We were right next to the reef and a nice set was coming through. It was to far left to us so we didnt bother but as it closed out, a nice abot 2m-2.5m wedge came through and we took it. Was a massive drop and as soon as I hit the bottem I wiped out and banged my nose on the sandbar, thanks for reading.
swell is rolling tonight, supposedly. heading out tomorrow morning before work. i don't know why i pack my days like this. i still gotta schedule carpet cleaning and prepare for my move into the new apartment at the end of the week. i don't care if i had a job interview at 9:00 am, i'd still head out at 5:30. gotta love it.