"Paddling out when it's packed..... packed and you can't
move... and theres unreal waves and you paddle out, you ge
t the wave of the day, and you flick off, and you know... y
oure the man... for that moment....  Thats what gets m
e stoked" - Macca, Psychotic.

Yesterday was very int
eresting, leaving home around 730 in the morning and arrivi
ng at Avalon to be greeted by a 1.5 to 2 foot sweel with a
crowd to rival pipeline... not very inviting, so we (S
tupid Rookie and I)  checked Bilgola, Whale and P
alm... onshore slop... now with a rapidly deteriorating moo
d,  we took a final stab at Mona Vale. Anticipation tu
rned to joy as i watched a random boooger drop into a 
solid 4 ft pit and exit cleanly with the spit... Game
On.

After a relatively easy paddle out, and setting
up in the line up, i watched and waited for the sets, it ca
me through and after a bit of hustle, i claimed one of the
best pits ive ever been in.... aft er that it was pretty mu
ch a crwod battle foe scrap waves with the occasional pearl
er. The stupid rookie learned a little more about the peril
s of surfing amongst the pack berfore letting the rip have
its way with him and pushing him further down the beach (i
later discovered he had perfect, uncrowded waves to himself
down there, telling me he has learned and important secret
of surfing - If you find yourself an uncrowded wave... kee
p your mouth shut.. Well in) and so after a nice 5 hour ses
sion, a big sleep and a train trip later, i find myself sit
ting at the C7 Corporate office, typing from the concierge
desk and thinking about the near perfect waves that were sc
ored yesterday, and knowing full well why i surf.. it keeps
me sane. Cheers people....

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