
waw today was awesome, Chebo got waves,and its si
milar to Puerto escondido but smaller, hehehe allot smaller
, but today was a sic day at the beach, chebo, a beach brea
k. very nice pipes. I got barreled,tossed and launched haha
h yup,back wash,very nasty at times....I succeeded on ridin
g Backside, cus i normaly couldnt and my first try it sucke
d and i desided F*$k that heheh, but i tried again and some
how,some way i did it and even felt that i could ride bett
er backside,hahah. i caught this huge wave frontside and sa
w the pipe over me, the nicest sight ever. and i trained a
little on my roller and DK,but failed at DK,need tips :tong
ue: hahahaha. and i tried to catch this huge set and i saw
that it was a little too l8, but still paddled for it, free
fall 2meters into the water on my board, and got tossed.it
was kinda kewl hahaha. nasty backwashes.
And tomorow .competition day, my friends picking me up aro
und 6 in the morning, really really nervious,dos playa is h
arder that any of the beaches i went to, wish me luck!