What a great weekend! We had another decent swell here in S
outhern Cali this weekend. (there haven't been many of them
this summer). On Sunday I decided to have a bonfire at Hun
tington Beach. I arrived at the beach early (11am lol) in o
rder to secure a fire pit close to the pier. Once I set up
my canopy (that I got for half price by the way...woo-hoo!!
!) I decided to paddle out. It was 3-5 ft and breaking very
nicely, I was in for some good riding for sure! Just as I
had thought, I pulled into some very nice waves for the nex
t hour. Then on my last ride of the session I pulled into a
very long left; the wave was a good 4ft and breaking perfe
ctly. As I dropped in and completed a bottom turn I rode ba
ck up the face of the wave and it hit me; the adrenaline ru
sh of having the best ride of the entire summer!!! I carved
a few more turns on the wave before getting a little air b
y smacking off the lip of the wave as it closed out (about
100 yards after it started). As I rode the whitewash into t
he shore I was elated, after suffering through a summer of
crap waves I finally got that high I was looking for.

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