woop its a lil l8 but a quote has relly stuck in my head an
d that is from riptide " do not believe in your eyes for al
l they show is limitation believe in ur mind and soul" and
wif this quote iv learnt to tackle the boundaries and get f
urther into the depth of craziness just last weekend i went
into an ocean of 10 foot waves shit its scary but th
is quote helped me through (btw guys im only 14 so ye
r) surfed out my brains on those waves and then went to a s
well indicator and that too had turned into a surf spot wit
h perfect peeling waves i wanted to get out but dude i waz
wif ma granny and she kept her foot down about nobody being
out there shortly the weekend after went wif ma dad with p
erfect surf at surfies point on phillip island which was go
od on both tides and on a 30 degree day it was a slice of h
eaven with tubes being ridden (didnt make any but its still
good to see the green room not to mention gtting dumped) t
he day comes down to a close with a total of 34 hours bodyb
oarding over the holz im a true grom