FINALLY! waves! woke up this morning, a light offshore was
blowing, conditions were looking good as there was resonabl
e swell! :) waited patiently as i ate some cocoa pops! toas
t and a peice of fruit! then left for the beach planning on
spending a wile in there! arrived and there were 7 foot se
ts coming through! threw all my gear on as quick as i could
and pretty much sprinted for the water, wave after wave wa
s a pit then the tide started to drop and it becam very suc
ky and hollow! perfect for bodyboarding! all the surfers st
arted to leave as it was breaking too fast for them , psshh
surfers ae! me and my bro and a few others were left
in the water with nice peaks coming through, again just bar
rel after barrel after barrel! i couldn't stop smiling!!! p
ut a 4hour solid effort in and decided to get out cause i w
as completely spent! not looking too good for a whole nothe
r weak so i will occupy myself by other means, and wait for
the next great day :)

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