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Refugio x2
Posted On 12/16/2006 21:35:03 by Roz
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Back to back sessio
ns for the first tim e in awhile for me. Very rusty a
nd very tired. The scene both days was not even close
to epic, but it was exactly what I needed. For some
reason lately I have been sketched before I've even gotten
out to the lineup, an d I've just had this uneasy feeling w
hen I've been out in t he water. It's funny how occas
ionally we get into a f unk without any instnace to st
art it; it just happens. A week ago I went to Rincon
, paddled out, size was O H+ occasional DOH, and as soon as
I got out there I turned around and paddled straight in.&n
bsp; Alarms where goi ng off in my head, and someone w
as screaming over the loud speaker "get out of here, and ba
ck to shore now." Usu ally I would charge that stuff,
but not lately, and hopeful ly all that has changed with t
he last two days, and a new w et suit, and some new fins.&n
bsp; I was having a blast out there the past couple of days
just messing around. &nb sp;The swell lately on t
he west coast has been cranking and there looks to be no si
gn of it stopping. Here is to a Merry Christmas and&n
bsp;a Happy New Year to all!&n bsp; May Santa brin
g you all the waves you can handle. ;
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