Woah! wot a supa weekend!..partyd 3 nytes in a row,fri,sat
and xmas eve! totally unplanned, and rocking! experienced a
 christmas with artificial snow falling..what an amazi
ng experience! now i no how the u.s feels over xmas..insane
!

Surf was up and pumping! i was blessed by the lord
and was given quality 5ft surf on xmas morning! had it all
to myself, the best gift ever and thank you lord for givin
g it to me! surfd a gud 4 times over the festive weekend an
d always above the 4ft mark! Blessed this wend i was..excep
t for my last surf session!

Surfin a wildside secret
spot in my home town, decent, hollow dredging 5ft beasts..
my surf was going pretty wel! putting 1 foot up and tearin
the beasts apart, i was in pure heaven..until...

I c
aught an insider benchin on the 4 odd foot mark, my 'no hol
ds barred' attitude took over my natural instincts, i set u
p for the drive down the face,bottom turned deeply to make
the dredgin barrel which was breaking on pretty much a foot
of water..pulled in and set up for the barrel of a lifetim
e, what a barrel it was,came out clean with no probs..a tru
e beaut! instead of accepting the gracious gift i had just
ben given,claiming my stoke and going back to the outside l
ine up..i decided to pursue the wave to the end! after carv
ing the remainder of the face, i set up for the big final..
Dk off the lip slash..my timing and execution of the move w
ere spot on..this was my day and i was taking no prisoners.
.but unfortunately 4 me it was not so..after my landing, th
e insider had abrubtley reached wot was pretty much dry ree
f..my board came to a grinding holt..projecting me onto an
exposed and upright piece of reef, my left side of my rib c
age took the 1st blow and my left hip successively taking t
he 2nd! 3 bruised and very tender ribs, a brusied hip, scar
tches on my chest and my hip, a brand new R2500.00 billabon
g wettie which is torn and a R3000.00 customised elomenopee
boardyboard all taken down..board and wettie are toast..im
toast but i will heal!

Question i ask myself..Was i
t worth it?

Answer: Hell Yeah! It was and i'll do it
again! (stupidity u say? A love 4 the sport and passion is
wot i say!)

But in all honesty..im supa bummed bout
my board n my wetti!

Now i gota find a new board! A
aaargh!

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