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9/27/07
Posted On 09/29/2007 10:05:55 by Stephanie_V
Its been a month since the last good surf, no, wait, scratch that, its been a month since any surf, its been a pond out there.  Today i pulled up the webcam as soon as I got online this morning, and no surprise here, there wasnt a ripple to be seen.  

2:30 pm rolls around and work starts slowing down, so I pull up the surf.....HOLY S???!!! THERE ARE WAVES!!!  Without thinking i throw both hands in the air as if someone just scored a touch-down and let out a  WOOOO!!!  The girl I'm training looks at me as if i have finally lost it.  I quickly explain that there hasn't been anything ridable in a month, but she already thinks I'm nuts, hehe, oh well, kinda true!

I ask, beg my boss to leave a half hour early, request granted!  As soon as 4:00 hits I close down the office in record time and sprint to my car.  I stop home, grab my gear, and haul down to the beach.  Ive got two voicemails from my surf buddies, dont bother listening, just give them both a call and tell them to get down to Watch Hill.  

I get to the beach and the surf is AMAZING, solid 6-8 ft rolling in!  I change quickly and sprint to the water in my vipers, diving in onto the first wave and hit the water paddeling.  Its been a month since the last time I went surfing, and its my first time in the water in my full suit.  I grabbed my regular Vipers instead of my Stewart v-7's on my way down, and between these three factors my ass is dragging in the water,  took me forever to paddle out!  

I finally get out there and the sets start rolling in, WOW.  Caught my first ride right away, much the the dismay of all the surfers in the line up wondering who the stupid chick with the boogie board was.  The surf was great, set after set comming in, with few lulls.  

The sun finally sets  and the skies begin to fade.  Just then the monster set of the night rolls in, everyone at the same time lets out an " awww, ssshhiiiitttt...."   followed by alot of paddeling.  The wave rears up a good fourty feet beyond the line up and everyone gets taken out.  As i surface I look down the beach and see surboards in the air, feet, legs, arms.  My left leg cramps and I have to paddle out with only my right leg, stopping once to stretch it, it eases up enough for me to swim out.

I paddle out as hard as I can to avoid the next wave, too late.  It crashes in front of me and i duck it quick.  Let me just say, I LOVE my vipers!  I get out beyond the break long before the surfers can make any ground.  On the horizon the next set is rolling in.

 Its getting darker, end I look back, the surfers are all headed home, they didn't want to fight the next set.  Even though i was beyond where the first set wiped everyone out I have to paddle, the incoming set is even larger.  I had to duck every wave in that set as well, the surf was still building!  I paddled out, and caught the next wave, it was nice, but I bailed early to save getting caught inside.  At this point its only me and one surfer, who gives me a nod and we share a laugh about everyone high tailing it out after the first cleanup set.  It gets darker, and my surf buddy was on the shore waiting for me to get out.  I catch a small wave in about halfway to shore before it dies out, and I have to swim in. 

 I take off my Vipers and get out of the water, looking back at the surf.  It was huge, still building.  All I can say is I hope there are some decent leftovers tomorrow!



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