On Friday we had the biggest day of the year so far.  Head high with occasional over head.  Had some real nice drop ins.  Tubes were closing out a lot, though I was able to get into a couple.  Steep stuff at first and really fast.  Had a great time.  This was the first big day with my new No6 Dekcuf so I worked on bottom turns, stalling and accelerating.   The board is really great.  The bat tail does slip a bit on the bigger and more steep breaks.  The board gives me confidence to hit some sections that were once impossible.

 Fun wave of the day.  Dropped in the biggest wave of the day.  Stalled to get in to tube, the board nosed and was swept away from under me.  Took a breath to accept the crush.  Opened my eyes and I am in the tube bodysurfing.  Had time to take a couple of breaths before the closeout.  After that..not so fun.

Awesome day. 

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