OK who hit that big south swell yesterday? Cause I know
i did. went to wedge early and its the best ive seen it in
years.. wedge was actually lining up. The in betweeners wou
ld be 5 ft. perfect dredging wedgers. Then fuckin a, those
sets that would just come in one after another!! 15ft. face
s on the big sets.. I was so pissed because my camera broke
about a week ago, so no video or still shots.. But I had t
he a great time.. then went to newport point when blackball
came up and rode hudge barreling closeouts for about an ho
ur, and even those sets would not stop coming and pounding.
and it was pretty shallow. hudge barrels every wave.. Then
after that I went to a secret cliff in laguna and had barr
eling LEFTS!!!! for a couple hours with me and my friends.
what a great day!!

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