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Its been a month since the last good surf, no, wait, scratch that, its been a month since any surf, its been a pond out there. Today i pulled up the webcam as soon as I got online this morning, and no surprise here, there wasnt a ripple to be seen. 2:30 pm rolls around and work starts slowing down, so I pull up the surf.....HOLY S???!!! THERE ARE WAVES!!! Without thinking i throw both hands in the air as if someone just scored a touch-down and let out a WOOOO!!! The girl I'm training looks at me as if i have finally lost it. I quickly explain that there hasn't been anything ridable in a month, but she already thinks I'm nuts, hehe, oh well, kinda true! I ask, beg my boss to leave a half hour early, request granted! As soon as 4:00 hits I close down the office in record time and sprint to my car. I stop home, grab my gear, and haul down to the beach. Ive got two voicemails from my surf buddies, dont bother listening, just give them both a call and tell them to get down to Watch Hill. I get to the beach and the surf is AMAZING, solid 6-8 ft rolling in! I change quickly and sprint to the water in my vipers, diving in onto the first wave and hit the water paddeling. Its been a month since the last time I went surfing, and its my first time in the water in my full suit. I grabbed my regular Vipers instead of my Stewart v-7's on my way down, and bet... Read More
in
my mock seal suit i enter you. your cold foam washes over me. i spit
salty. then dive in. i float to your surface and wait for the next
wave. patience. i can only think of you. my body flowing with
yours. patience and focus. you pull me in. i fight your force only
to give in to your flow. you take my breath away. floating in white
water and foam i look to the sky. sun through the clouds. i know you
love me.
one remove the BIG 662 off their pics???
The Fall of troy
The number twelve looks like you
Underoath
the kinison
Thrice
Foxy Shazam!
Circa Survive
I like to Bodyboard, paintball, and skate.
swell is rolling tonight, supposedly. heading out tomorrow morning before work. i don't know why i pack my days like this. i still gotta schedule carpet cleaning and prepare for my move into the new apartment at the end of the week. i don't care if i had a job interview at 9:00 am, i'd still head out at 5:30. gotta love it.
So i'm having some problems in my relationship right now. i don't feel like i'm good enough for her. it really sucks. but i guess it's my own insecurites that in the end will push her away.--on the lighter side of things, the south shore was fun today! the first wave i got, i got me a tube. didnt quite make it out tho. but almost. school is been sucking on my nuts. so much freaking homework and not enough damn time in the day. or the week for that matter. ok time to lift weights
Hey there,Went and saw Incubus Sept 7th, they were dakine! Any Incubus fans out there? Got my little boy back at school again, yea! Not really, he's my joy of joys. But at least I'll now have a bit of me time, since I'll be hitting H.B. after I drop him off at school, (before I have to go to work, yuck!). Well take care all, talk to ya'll soon! God bless and good waves! Later gators!
Hey..just subscribed to this site..anyone older than 33 out there? would like to touch base with an old fart like myself LOL!!
im getting more serious about bodyboarding now. for the past couple of times i went to the beach, i just had a body board (no fins) and was just getting used to the motion of the ocean.
today was the day i brought my new fins with me into the water with the board. i found it so difficult to walk in them. then, i had to figure out how to paddle out and in. even with all that i was able to catch two waves, yet the last wave somehow messed me up. i thought i got it, but i somehow lost it and next thing i knew i was off my board and my body was being tossed in the water and hitting the sand. ouch...my lower back still is sore...
Just got back from 12 days in Maui..and back at work!! Going to Half Moon Bay this coming weekend to see what's up!
Will post pics soon!
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