Finally got a chance to catch some waves yesterday! It f
elt like forever since I'd been in the water.

Had a fun little afternoon session an Lindy and met ano
ther female bodyboarder. So... that was fun to have someone
to hang around with in the water.

The waves were a little small, but that worked fine as
a "get back in the water" day. Today should be fun as well!
The longest day of the year....so... that'll be nice.

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Had a fun little session late this afternoon. It was
great to get into the water. I only really got one good
wave..... but... I still had a good time.

I hope I can get back out on Sunday afternoon.
Tomorrow is booked solid. :-(

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I finally had a chance to get back in the water
on Saturday! I went to my local spot and spent
about 3 hours in the surf. The waves were choppy
and it was sort of hard to catch anything. I managed
a few rides, but only 3 that were notable.

One thing nice was, I saw this guy who had
been in the water on the day that I caught my first
real wave! He remembered me and said hello. I was
very happy to have a friendly pal in the water after my
last experience. And the best part was.... the 3 rides I
caught were on pretty big waves (for a beginner). So,
I got some props for improvement from my pal. Sweet!

I still suck... but it's encouraging to know that
someone else besides me can see a little improvement.

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This time of year is such a drag! School is
coming to an end.... but there's more work now
than because of testing and graduation and end
of the year band concerts. ::sigh:: And because
it's warm and sunny, my mind keeps wandering
out the window.... wondering if there are some
good waves nearby today. The beach is almost
an hour away with traffic. It's tempting to just
bail out of work and go surf. But... I really should
work.

I love my job... but I hope that I get considered
for another position that I recently applied for. I have
been wanting to live closer to the ocean for some time
now. If I am selected, I'd be working in a beach town
in southern California. Then I could more easily
work AND surf! My buddy lives there... and gets to surf
every morning! That would be so great! I have my
fingers crossed! We'll see.

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Today was good for me.... until I just heard
that a guy drowned at that foamy break I wrote
about earlier this week. He was trying to help
2 kids who got pulled out in the riptide. The
kids made it in, but he drowned. Totally
sucks....

My buddy had called me to see if I wanted to
surf that break this morning.... but I was already
at another break when he called. I never like to
surf that spot. Ocean Beach. I know people say it's
supposed to be a good spot.... but it always gives
me bad vibes. Maybe because a lot of people have
drowned there.

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Maybe it's just me........ but I really don't like
riding foam.

Today i went out to a popular break that I hardly ever
go to. I rarely go there because it is a total bitch to
get out past the inside break. I was surfing with a
buddy who goes there a lot. We spent about an hour
getting pounded by medium to big sized foamy waves.
I was not a happy camper.

I could see the surfers out past the break.... so... I
finally had enough and just paddled out. It took some
effort but it was worth it as it was pretty big and
somewhat cleaner out there. After I rested a bit...
I actually caught a pretty nice ride. The bad news...
now I was back on the inside getting pounded.

I asked my buddy if he usually surfed inside or outside
because he was sort of staying on the inside and I really

wanted to get back outpast that mushy, pounding foam. He
said outside! So... as soon as the next lull in the waves

came along... I yelled "let's go"... and we paddled out.
We paddled so good... that before we realized it...
we were WAAAY too far out!!! I looked back and we had
completely blown past the surfer guys.... and the waves
were really big....
this seemed like a bad thing! lol

We didn't panic.... but I think we both realized that
we had better get back in quickly. This beach is famous
for it's riptides! (yikes) We stayed cool.... and we
finally made it to where the surfers were. And when
we got out of their way a bit.... this big wave came
along and we both took off! It was a nice ride....

Am I the only one who hates riding foam???? Yeah... it
was a little nerve wracking to ride the bigger waves that
were out farther.... but I'd much rather try those waves
than deal with those foamy inside pounders.

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Today the ocean gave me a little attitude adjustment. I
arrived at my local break after work today and found an
endless sea of foamy, rolling, tempestuous waves. I
was still more than a little pissed from the other day....
and so my stubborn determination to surf had me suit
up and jump right in.

There were only about 20 surfers out..... usually,
there'd be 100 at this break. That should have been a
little clue for me right there! It was rough. Paddling
through that foamy mess was brutal! The waves were
breaking like 3 seconds apart. And finally getting out
to the cleaner breaking waves proved to be no picnic
either.

As I punched through and had a chance to catch my
breath, I was keenly aware of just how small and
insignificant saturday's little tizzy fit was in the
scheme of life. Here I was.... surrounded by the power
and wrath of these huge, raucous waves..... being tossed
about with nobody else in sight. It was as if the ocean
was saying to me..."you wanna be mad? Okay... let's
just be mad together!" And... with that....I just
smiled...exhaled.....and let go of all that anger.

The sun was going down..... I was floating on my board.
....nothing else mattered.....all was right with the world
.
And then it happened! A big peak rose up and God help me.
.
... I kicked and felt myself being swept up really high...
.
I mean.... really, really high! (I dunno how high.. the
forecast said 5-8ft. I just know it seemed huge.) For
some reason... I knew I was going to catch this ride. I
remember thinking how strangely calm I was being as
I pushed down and flew through the air.... the bottom of
the wave several feet below me. One part of my brain was
asking the other part if I realized that I was flying
through the air. Because, normally on a wave this big...
I would have bailed out and taken the beating. But
for some reason... I wasn't scared. I trusted that I was
supposed to catch this wave. I had faith. Because,
the other part of my brain was calmly telling me to
hang on... relax... and take a look around.
Oddly enough.... the voice in my head was speaking
in a tone that reminded me of that scene in "Pulp
Fiction" where Marcellus if speaking to Jules over
the phone, repeating his
words and telling him that "the Wolf would be
there directly."It was simply a glorious feeling to
hit the bottom and race towards the shore.

Something happened today...... something I hope I don't
soon forget. The ocean taught me a lesson about how
to work through difficult situations. A lesson about anger
,
power, grace, appreciation and forgiveness. For on that
wave.....I rode through the mayhem and majesty of life...
in the palm of God's hand.

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Usually..... I feel better after surfing. But I'm having
a hard day.
My buddy took me to this shore break today... and.. I know
it was a good break because there were alot of other
bodyboarders who showed up after we did. Even a couple
who were like... sponsored "pros". And yes... they were
very good.

But... I'm pissed off. And... I've been pissed for
about...oh... 7 and a half hours now. And... my pissed
off feeling is irrational.. BUT.. I just can't seem to get

over it! I am somewhat pissed at myself because... I suck
at riding big crashing waves that break at the shoreline.
So... today was basically 5 hours of me getting pounded
into the sand 1000 different ways.

But I'm also pissed because of a little.... altercation
in the water with one of these "pro" riders. Apparently..
.
. completely by accident... I got in his way when I caught

one of the few waves I was able to ride today. Now, I'm
not
saying that it's okay to get in someone's way. But, I was

in the pocket... and I did not see this guy take off. So,
I
get to shore all happy and when I paddle back out he
comes
over and gets all in my face about how I got in his way.
I'm stunned and try to apologize saying I had no idea
and I was trying to stay out of other people's ways. He
retorts
that this beach is not a place to "try" and that I better
get out of his way of get out of the water. Well.... now
that he's said this...there's no F*ing WAY I'm getting
out of the water whether I want to or not!

So.... now I have to avoid Mr "I'm a professional
bodyboarder with a sponsor....look at me... I'm so
pretty..." and still try to ride a break that I probably
wouldn't have picked if I had gone out alone today.
But my buddy is having a great time... and worse than
that.... he and this other buddy turn out to sort of know
this aggro dude.... so they are over there giving him
a blowjob (figuratively) because yeah... the guy rides
well. But I don't care because I think this "pro" guy
is a class A dick for acting like he did. And, I get even
MORE pissed because my "buddies" don't do anything
to diffuse the situation. I surfed like crap for 5 hours
and I was tired as all hell...but there was NO WAY
I was getting out of that water before that
sponsored asswipe.

::sigh:: It was just a stupid and frustrating
experience... I should be able to deal with stuff
like this better. I'm a grown woman for Pete's Sake!
But... I went ahead and took some additional action...
and maybe it was a petty thing to do. But... I did it
anyway. And I admit... I hope Mr. Asswipe has an
unpleasant tomorrow because of it.

I do feel better now. But.... Gee Whiz!.... I really
don't like this side of me very much. If you're still
reading... hope I didn't bum you out too! Tomorrow
I'm going back to a more suitable break for me. And
hopefully I will catch some sweet rides instead of the
wrath of Mr. Asswipe. And then I can return to being
happy and excited about bodyboarding again.

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I really needed to surf today.... but the waves were
total crap this afternoon. So.... I decided that I'd have
to
drive about an hour south to find a decent spot. I was
tired after work.. but determined to at least get an hour
or two in the water before the sun went down. I was pretty

disappointed after driving all that way to find the 3-5 ft

waves in the forecast.... were more like 1-2 ft and even t
he
longboarders were hardly getting any rides. :-(

I know I said I'd rather surf than drive,.. but this
was ridiculous! So, I got back in the car and drove past
some of the other spots in that area. I drove all the way
to the last spot, stopping alopng the way to watch. One
spot had 2 bodyboarders... and no waves. Another spot
also had 2 bodyboarders... again, no waves. The only spot
that looked sort of good was this spot that is notorious a
s
a standup only spot where they are mean to non locals and
hate bodyboarders. I stopped to watch and then I saw him!
One lone bodyboarder and about 7 standups in the lineup.
I know it was kind of brazen... but I decided that it was

not very crowded and... and... well.... I wanted to surf t
oo!

I suited up nervously. I knew I wasn't up the the
level of these guys. But I was willing to try and follow
all the rules and stay the heck outta their way. I figured

maybe I could just hang on the inside and catch some of
the smaller waves that reformed. But first... I had to cli
mb
down some really slippery algae covered rocks and get into

the water fast before a wave came and smashed me onto said
rocks.... yikes! It was definitely a challenge!

Then I had to paddle out past this otter that was
hanging around the inside break watching people. Just then

a big wave rose up and the bodyboarder guy caught it! He
was riding my direction and when he went by he gave me a
friendly wave. This was encouraging! Then ... he paddled b
ack
out and actually invited me to come over to the spot where

he was hanging out... which was a really good spot where
the waves break against the cliff and form these fat half
wedges.
I didn't actually catch any rides from that spot... kinda
close to the rocks for a newbie like me! But I was very ha
ppy
and surprised at how nice everyone was being in the water
.
I did get in the way a couple times accidentally.... it f
e
lt awful. I just wasn't familiar enough with the spot to b
e
able to judge how fast the standups were closing the gap
f
rom the outside break. And... this place is like... pretty

right all rights.. and I'm more used to rideing lefts. But

after a while... I sterted to see how the waves were break
i
ng.

The good news for me..... I caught a few little rides..
. nothing to brag about.... but still... I was riding dece
n
t waves... in a spot where I never thought I would surf. A
s
the sun was setting... I was just on my board smiling...
l
ooking up at the lighthouse and the people walking by and
w
atching. And I was just really happy to be one of the peop
l
e out in the water... playin' with the big boys!

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