Today was the BEST DAY EVER!!!!!.........
because......

I DID IT!!!!!

I left outta work early today... it was sunny and
I just had this feeling like I HAD to go out and surf.
I got to Linda Mar about 2pm and there were a few
standups out... and even a couple of kid bodyboarders.
The waves looked smallish... but I was happy because
I had the whole afternoon to practice..... and... I had
even remembered my boooties, gloves and hat today!
It just felt like everything was going my way!

Today was a big turning point for many reasons.
First... I somehow started being able to tell the
differencebetween a big wave that was gonna wall up
and close out,and a big wave that had a peak and was
actually rideable. (How I even know how to explain that...

already amazes me! And, I have to say thanks to all
the supportive people who have chatted, emailed or
hung out and surfed with me. No waycould I have
learned all this without the help of this community.)

The next great thing that happened was that I actually
met a friendly NorCal bodyboarder and we had a nice
conversation between sets. It was fun to chat and have a
buddy. I caught some nice rides and I cheered for my
new pal as he rode his special DK board. I hope I'll be ab
le
to coordinate surf times to meet up in person with some of

the friendly NorCal people from here. So far.... bad timin
g.
(sorry Sam, sorry Bill)

And then it happened.... the moment I've been longing
for. It was incredible! I was paddling around... and this
big wave started to swellup. It had a peak! I kicked like

crazy and managed to slip right down in front of the curl.

I leaned left hard and pulled up on the right side of my b
oard
and all of a sudden.... I was riding down the face! No fo
amy
slosh.... no eyes closed, what the heck am I doing, holdin
g
on for dear life. I actually was riding AND steering down
the
face of a cleanly breaking wave. And on top of that.. I wa
s
aware.... at that very moment that I was DOING IT... for t
he
very first time EVER! And the funny thing was.... that wa
ve
just kept going... and going... and GOING!!! I was thinkin
g...
"Man! I'm still going! Well... okay!!! :-)" And the wave w
ould
kind of catch up to me.. and I'd push the tip of my board
down..
and just keep going some more. It was a crazy long ride!< >/P

Well.... when the wave finally foamed up and I turned
out... I know I must have looked silly.. because I was jus
t
smiling so big and goofy. I couldn't help it! It was such
an
awesome feeling to finally ride a sweet wave correctly.
And.. I KNOW that I'm not exaggerating about what a sweet
ride it was....(at first I thought maybe it felt so good a
nd long because it was my first)

How do I know I'm not exaggerating??? Because later on
...
when I was paddling around.... this good surfer says to me
,
"Hey, I saw you catch that sweet left over there a while b
a
ck. Man!
That was a long assed ride on a bodyboard!"

Aaaaaahhhhhhh.... I can die happy now.

More great stuff happened later.... but... this was the
highlight of my day! Thanks for enjoying it with me!

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Dang the water was cold today! And it didn't help
that I forgot my cap... my gloves...AND my booties!

I was pretty excited because I was supposed to meet
another bodyboarder to surf with today. So, I guess I
wasn't paying attention when I was packing my gear so
I left half of my stuff outside drying. Plus... I never
did see my new pal (sorry Bill) ::sigh::

Surf was smallish again today....but still fun. I'm
getting much better at steering and I think that when
there are some bigger waves, I might even be able to
steer pretty well! I practiced for about 3 hours again
today. But I finally had to get outta the water because
I couldn't hold onto my board anymore since my fingers
were like.... stuck in some weird,clawlike pose and I
couldn't straighten them out. It was kinda freaky and I
had a little trouble walking back to the car since my fee
t
were pretty numb as well. The worse part was
when I realized that I couldn't hold the key to my car
tightlyenough to turn the lock! lol My fingers were reall
y,
really that cold! I finally managed to open the car and
somehow peel off my wet gear and pull on some sweats.
Then I sat in the car with the heater going full blast for

about 20 minutes until I could move my fingers normally.
Man! That was sooo freaky. I've been home for several
hours and I still feel chilled to the bone.

But.... I'm goin back tomorrow.... with boots, gloves
and my hoodie of course!

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I just woke up... still a bit sore from yesterday's
session. The waves were only about 3-4 feet for most
of the day. But, I needed the practice so I was happy
to have some consistent rides to practice my kick offs
and my steering. I wasn't that thrilled about the cold
Northern California water. Brrrrr ...it's been really
cold this week. It even snowed here which is very
unusual.

I can't say that I have mastered the steering yet
as the real test will come when I try to ride some
decent sized waves with a litle more oomph! I still
don't understand how people can catch these small
waves....or the inside waves. I'm usually the farthest
one out... hanging with the standups...waiting for the
bigger waves. Yesterday was more of a day for
longboarders I guess...as they appear to be able
to ride anything small or slow...doesn't seem to
matter to them.

I did get the hang of turning a bit though! I actually
figured out how to do a little spin around at the end to
get out of the wash at the end of my rides. That was
fun! But I'm still wanting to learn how to ride down the
clean face of a fast moving wave...keeping just ahead of
the curl until the barrel catches up or... maybe even stee
ring
up to the lip and catching a little air! .....
(patience grasshopper......lol)

I spent about 3 hours in the surf before it got dark.
The sunset was gorgeous as it had been fairly sunny all
day. The few lone clouds off in the distance gave off a
pink and purple aura as the last orange streaks of sunligh
t
fought to stay above the waterline. It was beautiful.

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Spent the day being frustrated with things like.....
having to go to the bathroom as soon as I parked
and got all suited up, struggling with rough waves
and strong currents, freezing in 55 degree water,
not really being able to catch more than a couple of
rides the whole day and generally thinking that I might
as well just give up........but had to laugh in the end
when this great song by Daniel Powter started
playing on the radio as I was driving home bitching and
bemoaning how everything just sucked at that particular
moment. The song is entitled "You Had A Bad Day" and
it just made me stop and giggle at how blown out of
proportion my "bad day" really was.

You can watch the video and listen to the song by
clicking here

The link is: http://www.manchesteronline.co.uk/enterta
inment/music/audioandvideo/s/167/167471_watch_daniel_powte
r
s_bad_day_video.html

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So..... I'm learning more and more each time I go out fo
r a surf. So, that part is good. But, I'm sort of disappoin
ted that there are almost never any bodyboarders at the spo
ts here in Northern Cali that I've been going to. This tell
s me a couple of things. Either.... there are not a lot of
bodyboarders in Northern Cali.... and/or.... I'm at the wro
ng spots!

Last weekend I drove down the coast looking at the spot
s I know. They all seemed foamy and closed out with hardly
any surfers in the water. Yeah.. it was SuperBowl Sunday...
but even I have learned that nobody in the water is usuall
y a bad sign. (well... except for that place in La Jolla...
. MAN, what a sweet wave! Would I love to be able to surf t
here every day!)

I finally just gave in and decided to try a place in Sa
nta Cruz that was recommended. It took FOREVER to get there
because there was a car wreck on PCH1 and I had to turn ar
ound and criss cross all through the mountains to get back
around to the beach. But, the weather was nice and the wave
s looked promising! Woo-Hoo!

Now.... I am always hesitant about trying a new spot al
one. I don't know if I understand enough about the "rules"
yet. So I always worry that I'm gonna be in the wrong spot.
... or accidentally ruin someone's turn. It's a little inti
midating in some places, and Santa Cruz is one of those spo
ts that people had warned me about. So, I leaned against th
e rail and just watched the various breaks for a while. Cle
arly.. this was a place where standups ruled. There must ha
ve been 200 surfers within my view. And then I saw him....
one lone bodyboarder. So, I figured.... I guess I can go in
too!

I've noticed...... disturbingly....that the more knowle
dge I seem to gain... the more hesitant I seem to become ab
out just.... "going for it". I'm not sure why this is occur
ring. Perhaps before... I was too stupid to know what dange
rs were possible... or how one faux pas to the wrong surfer
dude could land you in some sort of surfer vs bodyboarder
pissin' match. It has sort of made me less enthusaistic abo
ut "the bodyboarder culture" if such a thing exists. And...
.. as I've interacted online with some of the other message
boards (not here) ... there's certainly some degree of.. "
who's the best at this"... "who's the best at that" sort of
weird vibe that detracts from the pure joy and beauty of b
eing on a piece of foam out in the ocean and sliding down a
wave.... just because it's fun!

Anyways.... my afternoon session in Santa Cruz turned
out to be delightful with no problematic run-ins or shoutin
g matches. And, I even managed to ride a few nice waves. I
never did see the other bodyboarder in the water. Maybe he
left when I was getting my wetsuit on or something. But....
I'm getting used to riding alone and just talking to the su
rfers. They've actually been pretty nice to me. So... no ac
tual animosity in the water.... but a whole lot of inferred
animosity out on other parts of the web. I don't get it...
I thought surfer people (standups and bodyboarders) were s
upposed to be laid back and mellow.

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I definitely "got" the definition of "walled up" today..
..

It was the last day of my trip..... so I got up early
for my first ever early morning surf venture. 7AM.....cold
....
and foggy.... with all my gear stil wet from the day befor
e.
Man!!! I was even surprised myself that I was willing to g
o
through all of that just to be able to possibly catch some

waves before heading back home. I guess I really am a
bodyboarder.... even if I'm not a great one yet!

There were a lot of bodyboarders and surfers in the
water already. The pier is pretty popular and it's always
been busy every time I've ever been to Manhattan Beach.
But this time was different. I was amazed at how the waves
looked. I never noticed it before. It was just solid wave
with no peak! I learned later that when it breaks
like that... it's called being "walled out". I didn't like
it.
It made me realize just how beautiful that big wedge
in La Jolla really was...... just a perfect, beautiful
wave. Ahhhh......

Because there were few times when the wave was
breaking cleanly, all the other bodyboarders and even some

surfers were jockeying for position. And... I was too tire
d
to be very adept at manuevering to catch any of the few
good waves that came along. My 5 hours of surfing
yeaterday left me pretty worn out today. I ended up visiti
ng
a friend and then driving home, which took another 6 hours
.

It was a good trip. I met some nice people and learned
more about bodyboarding. I think I know the difference bet
ween
a rideable wave and a bad wave. Now... I just have to lear
n how
to be able to ride all the rideable waves that come my way
! lol

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I surfed a nice spot in Oceanside today with a new frien
d from 805bbr. (Thanks for being a kind and gracious host
R
ussell) The waves were nice and clean... maybe 3-4 feet. A
n
d paddling out was a breeze because the current along the
j
etty just sucks ya right out to sea! (this was not helpful

once one was out past the jetty though..... as I found mys
e
lf halfway to Mexico on several occassion!)

Mostly.. it was just nice to surf alongside a couple of
bodyboarders and surfers who were helpful and gave me som
e
pointers. I really appreciate it. I know a couple of time
.
.. I made them miss a nice wave beacause we were talking.
I
felt bad.... but... they were cool about it.

I think I finally started to get the hang of the steer
ing today! (yippee!!!) There were a few times when I actu
a
lly CHOSE to go a certain way instead of just sliding down

the wave and having to end up wherever it pushed me. It wa
s
really, really fun!

I spent about 3 1/2 hours at Oceanside, then I drove u
p to Salt Creek where they were hosting a bodyboarding con
t
est. I watched for a few minutes.... but honestly.... Russ
e
ll was right! Watching someone else ride a wave... just ma
d
e ME want to ride! So.. I hit the waves (pitiful waves, bu
t
still a little ride to be gotten) for another 2 hours.

In the words of Forrest Gump, "I'm pretty tired now...
.. think I'll go home."

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What a gorgeous reef I saw yesterday in La Jolla!
Even before I went out to ride, I was captivated by
the beautiful clear waters, the intricate tidepools
and the teeming marine life along this wonderful stretch o
f the
coast! It was my first time to the area so I just took
a while and looked at everything before I suited up
to try and find where the bodyboarders were
supposed to be.

I drove along the coast and through the
neighborhoods hoping to see someone in the water.
This fellow from another message board (805bbr) had
said he was headed to La Jolla Reefs and I could come
surf with them if I could find 'em! I finally came upon
a lone surfer who was suiting up and he pointed me
towards a beach called "wind and sea". So... off I went.

I parked across the street and walked over to where I
could just make out the figure of a solitary bodyboarder
tearing it up on a beautiful cresting wedge of surf! He wa
s great!
I watched him for a bit and then figured... "this has to b
e the guy!"
So.. I pulled on my wettie and my new boots, grabbed my fi
ns and
headed down to meet a new friend.

As I was paddling out.... I was both amazed and frighte
ned.
Under the clear waters was a beautiful maze of reef with k
elp and sea grasses all over. It was spectacular! But I als
o realized that if I were
to actually catch a wave and come crashing in onto this re
ef....
my big butt (as well as other vital body parts) could easi
ly
sustain some serious damage! I remembered my new friend
Steve and his tattoo... "The sea hates a coward." So... I
took a few deep breaths and paddled out to where the big,
beautiful waves were breaking. (thanks Steve)

In the time it took me to get out... the other bodyboar
der
had caught and simply manhandled...oh... at least 5-7 big
waves. He would catch them underneath and paddle furiously
til he was up on the side of the crest in absolutely PERFE
CT position
to come ripping across the face. He even managed to do som
e spins as
he went flying by. (the RAT BASTARD! I muttered.... I wann
a do THAT!!!!)

Meanwhile, as I bobbed there watching "how it is done".
.. the surfers started to arrive. As they paddled past me..
. I must have had a pretty dumbfounded look on my face beca
use several stopped to ask if I was alright. "Yeah... I'm a
lright" ..... just pissed at myself for not being able to d
o what I wanna do.... The waves kept comin' and I was just
duck diving and bobbing around like an arse.

I built up my resolve and started to kick... determined
to catch the next good wave and prove to myself (and yeah.
..I admit it... this guy) that I could actually hang. Here
it came....a perfect wedge... clean and big....and heading
right for me. I kicked hard and felt myself rising up on to
p... I pushed down on the nose and committed to the drop in
. Oh boy..... what a variety of emotions! Delight at actual
ly catching it! Panic...at...actually catching it! Terror a
t being under the water for what seemed an eternity. And...
. elation at feeling the sea air fill my lungs as I finally
broke the surface again. Now mind you... I didn't say I ro
de the thing well....... I slid down it... awkwardly at bes
t....survived a good tossing about and came up in the wash
with a smile. It still counts for something though!

When I looked around to see where the other bodyboarder
was... he at least gave me a wave and a smile now. Nice to
know that my near death experience was witnessed by someon
e! lol Anyways.... after that he and the others were a bit
more friendly. I still tried to stay out of their way mostl
y. But the next time the bodyboarder caught a awesome ride.
..and ripped it up.... I yelled to him... "I wanna do THAT!
" So.. as we were paddling out, he actually chatted with me
a bit and explained that even though the reef was below us
, it was fairly deep and I wasn't likely to be smashed on i
t. (how comforting...lol) Turns out he was an Australian. H
e looked familiar... but.. I dunno where I'd know him from
unless he's on this board or the other. Anyways... he was r
eally, really good... and I hope that after a while... I'll
get good enough to at least be able to catch a wave SORT O
F like he could... It was beautiful to watch.... What a bea
utiful day all around!

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• Airline Ticket $300
  
• Airport Parking $66
  
• Ground Transportation $53
  
• Meals $80
  

Realizing what an idiotic decision it was
to be cooped up in an apartment in Memphis for
the weekend when I could be bodyboarding
in California.......priceless.

...still not recovered from last weekend's
silly decisions... but..hopefully learnt my lesson.
I could never be in a serious relationship with
a guy who didn't love the ocean. WHAT was I
thinking?????? lol

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