Back from my tasmania trip which lasted three weeks, first
week home i got so sick I had to go to the doctors, I haven
't been sick for 2.5 years.. I was given for one week, pill
s the size of AA batteries. now I'm set for my first s
urf in 5 weeks..... SO Here I'am with my friend about
to jump off the rocks. I jump and paddle away, I look back
at my friend, "com-on mo-fo".. he had jumped straight out o
nto the rock, gutting his $400 BZ type H. It was truely a m
urder seen. I never want to see a board like that again....
such pain. Since my chest infection, I soon realised I coul
dn't hold my breath for more then a duck dive..
I jumpe
d onto a set and the off sore breaze pushed the face up nic
e and steep. Carving up and down to gathering speed, the wa
ve then hits the sand bank kicking up another foot or too a
nd starts to close out. I tried to use the force a
nd punch it past the break but something grabs my leg.. its
my friend and he knows he is too far back in the wave, he&
nbsp;was about to be chood up  and eaten. I look back
at the lip which was now about 10 centermeters from my face
! !!smack!!,, no breath and no strenght, the lip pushe
s me hard down until it pegs me on the sandy bottom. I was
suprisingly calm considering there was a great chance i was
about to drowned. I felt the waves turbulance pick me up a
nd drag me back into the wave, I was upside down and about
to puff out my breath.. then BANG i hit something .. It was
my friend, I grabed the wet suit and the wave passed us by
now that our combined wieght was too heavy for it to throw
us around. I reached the surface and choked for air. I loo
ked at my friend who was looking at me unusually . "I'm rig
ht", I said he...
 his reply was "what were you gra
bing my arse for!!" hahahahahaa

Ok, it was my last surf for a month today, i jumped out
off the rock and instantly jumped on a left hander. It was
ok, though nothing to write home about. it was inconsistant
, probably because it was 11am.... this is fare too late to
be surfing in my opinion. I was out with my older brother
who seemed to have sand in his vagina?? He was in a bad moo
d and was winging about His Viper fins. They do suck,
every cent of the $100 they cost but I couldn't take it. I
said do you need a subscription to tampon monthly you pussy
and from that i was left to catch the waves on my own.


What do you think the most important evolution in B-boa
rding is people
a) Bait tail b)Stringer c) Shitty Viper
Fins

I woke up on the exci
ting side of 5am and headed in, by the time i hit the water
it was a little before 6am. It didn't look good, ruff and
inconsistent but after a fight with the rip I was out.. A n
orth east wind was helping push more water into the waves f
or a fat, steep and very fast wave. I had chosen NMD P
layer PE and waited for the set. Here is my chance, a set r
olling in had my name on it, (go left for open face carving
wave) or (go right and hope player is fast enough to beat
the lip) A good push out with my manta fins and a great bot
tom cut from player and i had found myself low in the wave
that was about to offer a barrel.. Oh yeah just tilt and pu
ll up a little and I’m in position. Nuh.. the lip smacked m
e fair in the head and I'm sure it was the first time my to
p lip made it over my nose while the force of the water mad
e an example out of me for trying to take too muc
h!
PS I'm so sick of dolphins pretending they are
sharks and scaring the **** out of me!! 

Hi all,
T his morning was a photographers dream
, sadly tho my mate fo rgot my memory card for the camera
( sorry guys for all thos e waiting for pics) so instead le
t me word it to you this w ay. OOOOOHHHH YYYEEEAAAAHH!
B
y the time i got to the bea ch it was about 6:30am with a m
on ster of a king set every 8 mins. Now i've been around fo
r a while but looking down the face of those waves, the sli
ght concave which left free fa ll imminent, well, even I do
gge d way too many.
The Fist: Surfers were way out of th
ere league and quickly realised it too, in order to catch t
hese waves you had to catch the last seconds befo
re t he break. all the surfers fr ee fell into the rock bel
ow an d then left for more calm con ditions. NOT ME, no I p
addled into a wave where the under t oe sucked the face of
the wa ve to about 6 1/2 foot. SPANK T HE MONKEY!
I dro
pped, c ut a rail in and the NMD to ok off. with this
much spe ed i could easily bust through th e lip right.....
.WRONG th e board after travelling up such a large face jus
t ran out of chuff. I tried to push through but something g
rabbed me. FK not the falls again. I fell th rough the wave
which the n picked me up over the lip, I had my eyes close
d cos i tho ught i was under water then. BANG o n my guts.
the next fiv e mins of turbulence don’t bother me unless i
hit something . when i surfaced my flipper saver h ad snapp
ed and my leas h was at my finger tips. "TEZ" i call ed out
, "you gotta ge t your shit on this!"
http://www. sticky beek.com.au/surf/index.asp BAR BEACH PHOTO TW
O THIS IS WHE RE THE SURFERS RETRIETED!!! BUT YO U
CAN STILL SEE THE UNDE R TOE WORK'n ON THE SANDY BOTTOM SU
CKING THE WAVE UP A LIT TLE
(add about 2 or 2 1/2
f oot to the face and th at was what i was riding all this
mor ning!)
Hope this inspires you

SURFING IN THE MORNING TILL THEN

http://w
ww.fugly.com/media/view.php?cat=DOWNLOADS&id=19

Keep pressing him it just makes it more funny

http://www.fugly.com/media/view.php?cat=DOWNLOADS&
id=13
This kills too much time ay


http://www.fugly.com/media/view.php?cat=DOWNLOADS&id=79

fun game

http://www.fugly.com/med
ia/view.php?cat=DOWNLOADS&id=60
see it from a sh
arks point of view

http://www.fugly.com/
media/view.php?cat=DOWNLOADS&id=55
ok game
http://www.fugly.com/media/view.php?cat=DOWNL
OADS&id=133
danielson

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