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Went to Rincon for the first time, 1 1/
2 hr drive from my house, went down there with a surf bud,
spent the night sleeping in the car in the parking lot at R
incon.  Was up and got in a good dawn patrol session t
hat turned into a lunch patrol.  Spent 6 hrs in the wa
ter, and I was damned tired after it was all over.  Th
e wave at Rincon is perfect, perfect shape, fun, I can not
say enough about it.  In the morning it was a couple f
eet OH, but by the time we left the size decreased to chest
high.  I caught a few of the longest rides of my life
today, the wave just went forever.  It was semi crowe
d about 30-40 people all surfers, but if you put yourself i
n the right places it was no trouble catching waves. 
I was taking off deep, so everyone would have to give
the wave to me.  Can't wait for the next west swell to
funnel in so I can go back.

Went to a favorite local spot today tha
t I frequent and the conditions were good except for the wa
ter temp which was a balmy 53F.  6 people in the water
counting me, swell was 6-7ft at 11sec which made for a pea
ky, semi-hollow right hander.  Biggest wave I caught a
ll day was 2ft OH, dropped in real late but held on an
d made it and then preceded to carve it up right into the c
hannel. After about 2hrs I was frozen solid and caught
the next wave in before I died of hypothermia.  
Even in my 4/3 with booties and a hood/underskin I was cold
.  I think it is time for a new wetsuit?  Till ne
xt time have fun and keep rippin.   

Went sponging this morning and it wa
s not too bad.  There was a good wind swell in the wat
er averaging waist to chest high but the period was under 1
0 sec.  Everyone was having trouble taking off today e
specially the surfers because the wave was soooo steep.&nbs
p; You would start to paddle and then you were free falling
, and then boom you were off.  The bottom would just s
uck right out from underneath you.  Took one bad wipe
out; air dropped into the wave on take off and pearled the
nose and then preceded to get rag dolled for a bit.  O
uch!  It was a good session wipe out and all.

Today was a good session, the weather cleared up, winds wer
e off shore, and with all of the central coast bouys c
hecking in at over 10 feet there were some big waves to be
had.  The wait in between waves was a tad long but whe
n they came it was awesome.  Every wave I scored today
was OH +2-4ft.  People were commenting on a couple bo
mbs that I caught; a couple of times it felt like I got dro
pped out of a second story window.  Nothing like catch
ing a giant wave, dropping in and pulling a nice tight bott
om turn with all of that speed. 

It has been awhile since I have visited, been too busy s
ponging.  Over the last to weeks I have surfed 7 days,
4 different locations, 3 reefs and 1 beachbreak.  I a
m begining to dislike beachbreaks prefering reef and point
breaks.  I hear beachbreak and think of tough paddles,
duck dives and too many close outs.  Anyone feel me o
n this one?  The best session I had was a reef break,
chest high waves, nice right hander.  The spot is tric
ky because if you take off too deep there is a good chance
of not making the section in which case you will be smashed
on the rocks.  I made the mistake of taking off too d
eep and just before I was exploded on the rocks I was depos
ited on top of a large flat rock, and to everyone's surpris
e including my own without a scratch.  Paddled back ou
t and scored some more waves including a few coverups. 
; Good day, lucky day.  I have a little dilema; the cr
ew I surf with are all traditional surfers and they are try
ing to talk me into surfing or rather standing up.  I
really do not want to.  What does anyone out there thi
nk?  The forecast for the next week for central C
ali does not look good; windy, cold, and rainy. 
I am going to keep my fingers crossed, there is always a go
od session waiting.   

Just had three sessions in a row and
I am wiped out. First session was at Refugio which was cro
wded and mushy with waves averaging chest high. The next tw
o days were at an undisclosed location that has the best le
ft hander I have ever sponged. Wave height was chest to hea
d high. The lulls were a little long, especially the one we
re I waited for 20 min by myself, trying to catch a wa
ve in, with not a sole or wave in sight. Mind tricks!
All in all it was a good three days, weather was so nice it
did not seem like February.

Tomorrow will be three straight days
of sponging. Currently a good size swell is hitting the Cn
trl Coast of CA. Winds have been offshore and temps have be
en near 80. Went to the same spot all three days, waves hav
e been head high to 2-3ft OH. Nice left handers, lengthy ri
des. Stepped into the green room a couple of times. Shacked
baby! Totally stolked.

Went to Avila Beach today and got a
session in which turned out to be better than expected. Avi
la is not one of the hot spots and is usually one small clo
seout. Today however there where some nice left handers whi
ch made for a fun day. Waves were waist to shoulder high, a
nd a few times during the session there were some double up
s! It was only me and a good friend Jorge, we had it all to
ourselves. Had some lady ask me the stupid age old questio
n, "what about the sharks". What about the sharks, if you g
et eaten you get eaten. Obviously she had never b
een surfing of any kind and did not understand. It made me
laugh. Ha Ha.

I met this girl on New Years and
since then we have gone out a handfull of times, and they
have been good.  Obviously I already have it bad for t
his girl.  Anyways last Thursday I called her and left
her a message.  Later that evening she texted me back
saying she was going to bed and that "I will call you soon
!" Those being her exact words. That was last Thursday. Hal
f of me wants to call her, and the other half is saying be
patient and wait for her to call. I am leaning towards
waiting for her to call, I do not want to sound desperate,
clingy, or smoothering. I am going out of my mind.&nb
sp;Any advice? Ladies?

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