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Went up coast to Ft. P. this weekend
. It was no good in the afternoon. Should have gotten on it
earlier. Very blown out and crowded. ESA contestants were
practicing for Sunday.

S
unday was better. Went to Avalon. Waves were about hip to c
hest on the standups. Some kid saw me walking through the p
arking lot. Heard him say to his friend, "It is a good day
for dick dragging". Had to laugh, especially since I don't
have a dick, but hey, whatever. He didn't say it in a mean
way.

Waves were fun at A
valon. We had a good time. First wave was pretty steep and
I had to talk my way through it. It always takes a few sess
ions to get back into the bigger winter swell for me. Went
home after that and stopped at Ft. Laud. beach. Was surpris
ed by 3-5' swell. Very clean. Sponged until dark. Went home
and pigged out on hot dogs and chimichangas.

Had a good sesh on Memorial day. Waves were waist high for
standups. And powerful...not the usual mush crap. Was getti
ng spinners and not straining the old back at all. Felt f*#
%in' wonderful. Almost got a minitube but just wasn't movin
g fast enough. Have to work on that. I'm getting slower as
I get older I guess. Ah, what the hell, it was bound to hap
pen sooner or later.

Need a wave man....need a wave reeeaaal bad

It's been flat so long, I think I forgo
t how to sponj.

Was feeling like straight up shit o
ver money problems. Went down to the beach yesterday becaus
e I haven't seen the ocean in over a week. It was so pretty
and smelled so good. I felt better even though it was flat
.

Just g
ot back from Tennessee. It was great. Hiked for 6 days. Did
Alum Cave bluff, Chimney tops, Appalachian trail, Andrews
bald, Rainbow falls, Laurel falls and a few more trails her
e and there. Saw bear, deer, coyotes, chipmunk (my first ch
ipmunk), a little squirrel with black eyebrows, snake, and
daddy longlegs all over the place. It is so beautiful up th
ere. But I missed the ocean.

Went out yesterday. It was dumping s horebreak. Didn’t care. Needed to be in
the water.  G
erry got dragged up o n shore and layed there for a few min
utes. He always looks like a corpse washed up after each ri
de. I asked him about it but he just laughs. He's just
learning, so whatever makes him happy.

He sits up
and digs his hand into the sand. He pulls up a rock. Weird
little thing. It’s bla ck and looks like a little guy sitti
ng in lotus position. H e looks just like Yojo (Queequeg’s
Yojo…not that big stupid blue thing). I think that is a goo
d omen.

You're doomed, pal, like every wave,

So, enjoy the swell times.
Then with your top turning wh
ite
ever more of the life juice slipping away...
the
crash inevitable,
well, just fizzzzzle out gracefully,or go out with a roar,
remembering, it makes little di
fference,
since it never was about you anyhow, always ab
out the Ocean.

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