Hey, I hope you are doing well. I havent spoke to you in a while. Today I was out in Daytona and a big black tip shark swam passed me. It scared me so much. A wave came perfect timing when I saw it, so i caught it and rhode it in. I am trying to get back into shape. my myspace page is http://www.myspace.com/bigsexybeachbum , I am posting all my pitcutres on that. I am just so burnt out, an this sport is doing it more to me everyday that I can't take it any more. Just peoples attitudes in this sport is sick, but its like life theirs alot of ass holes out their. I don't know what I am going to do.
I actually saw ben harper a couple of months ago, very good show, damien marley opened for him. I have had some buddhist influences, but I would not consider myself anything. I just am. When it comes to food I am an omnivor; I will take the veggies and a slice of meatloaf please. Did it have ketchup on top?
nar thats alright, i gave up because i nearly died out in t
he surf, got dragged out by a rip and the waves were about
7 foot and it was really sucky and i couldnt get in, i caug
ht this wave and it nailed me, got hit by the lip and it dr
agged me under for so long, it might not sound bad but i ke
pt on having nightmares about it, so i didnt go out for abo
ut 7 months, then i got back into it, and i grew up so it d
osnt bother me anymore, thats about it (sory if this dosnt
make sense im really hungover)..... peace out
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