Ehm well, Im new at this, just got started. I bought a cXs
36 (yes, Im short), no fins yet though. But that didn�t stop me.

Went with my bf. The fun started here; he was like 'are you sure you want to do this? There are some strong currents today and you got no fins' and I was like 'yeah!, I didnt came here for nothing' so, there we went. As
I already said, Im new at this, and I dont know shit about
duckdiving, so he went out with my board, and I got at the
line up swimming. There were some strong currents, it made
me wish I had FINS and be bareheaded, cus my hair kept coming in my face, couldnt see shit, haha. I finally got out,
got on my board and then he put me on a nice wave. It felt
really gr8, I could feel like butterfly in my stomach, I was riding my first wave (without getting a wipeout)
, but somehow I ended near the rocks there. Haha, not so gr8 anymore, good feelings gone!

He didnt tell me t
hat when the wave crashes I had to bail out my board, oh well, now I know. But that info, could have been useful earlier!! The only thing in my mind was, how the hell Im gonna get outta here, I got to get myself out! No time for sissy stuff! But no matter how hard I tried I couldnt get out. To
make things shittier, my leash got wrapped around my stomach, so I had only one free hand, the other one was wrapped
around my belly. And the waves kept bumping me on the rock,
but I didnt get cut or anything, cus it had seaweed on it
, I held tight to the rock, so the wave wouldnt drive me in and out again. And there was my bf, coming to rescue me from my misery. I was like, get me out of here!! I got on his back, released my hand, crossed over the rock, got on the
board and head to shore. Haha, it was a great 'crapping my
pants adventure'

. He was like; 'you should have seen your face! You were scared as babe!, I told you to get
the fins first, these currents can be messy', bla bla bla Not that I didnt care what he was talking. But I was looking
back at the rocks, thinking, how the hell could I have ended there, but anyways. Besides that shit, I really liked what I felt when I was on that wave. I didnt think about anything, it was pure feeling, and it felt so damn good, like ur being in love or something. Just waw, it was worth it. So
you're wondering what happened next eh? Well, my bf got back in. And what about me? Hmm, I waited a while, then I got
in the white wash to practice paddling out and duckdiving
(last one without positive results) but so what, practice makes perfect. I'll try anything once, and twice if I like it! So stay tuned for my next story, hehe.