Viewing 1 - 2 out of 2 Blogs.

Finally back in the surf after 3 weeks of recovering from a
jarred shoulder and suffering a massive swell drought... w
ent down to Bendalong, I was so keen to get out t
here i ended up getting pumped and hammered myself on
my first wave and lost one of my brand new fins! Haha, damn
! They were blue T2's i got brand new for $10.00 at the Tow
nhall SDS sale, so i can't really complain, i still ha
ve my Churchies (and they bloody well float too!!!). I also
took a chunk out of my hip when i hit the sand bank. 
That really killed but it was worth it, i got some pretty g
ood air off that wave before i got smashed :)

Went t
o Mystics in the afternoon. There were some pretty good wed
ges out there but a little too onshore for my liking, still
heaps of fun but. Didn't get as many waves as i had hoped
- just had a little play and took it easy after t
he working i copped at Bendo.

Now i'm back in the ci
ty of seedy Sydney at my desk at work... i've driven in tod
ay and will be again tomorrow because the surf's still mean
t to be pretty decent for today and tomorrow afternoon.

Had the best weekend - plenty of waves!! Went down the
South Coast to Green Island... was awesome!! Pretty clean
and some pretty good size. About 4 - 5ft solid. Took about
10 minutes to paddle out the back but was well worth it! I
was the only person on a lid the whole time i was there. Th
e place was dominated by surfers, so i got hassled plenty b
ut i was there with a surfer mate so it wasn't too bad
after a while.

I got the most speed i have ever got
ten off any wave, heaps easy to do spinners with this much
speed. I was pissing myself laughing the who ride down
on the first few waves. I don't know why.... i think i was
just cheering that the conditions were perfect and i
didn't have to work that night or something....

Hea
ps of fun, even though it all started when i lost a fi
n (first wave) and ended up losing my board (a knot on my l
eash came undone)... but as you know, boards wash into shor
e so that was cool, got that back easy, even the rope with
the shonky knot was still there!!.

Oh and as for th
e fin... well i was paddling back out after my first wave (
took forever) and i had the shits really bad so i started s
wearing and carrying on (like a Shazza). Then i saw somethi
ng in the corner of my eye that i though was a shark's fin
coming my way!! But when i looked twice i thought, 'siiiiii
ck, sharks don't have blue tips on there fins....' and i wa
s STOKED when i finally realised my fins float and it was j
ust bobbing there, meeting me half way.

What are th
e chances of THAT happening!?!?!?! I was sooo lucky to
get it back or otherwise it would have ruined my weekend,
having to go shopping for new fins and stuff... crazy!
< >BR