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Its 5am and I'm feeling a little
flat so I decide to have a small amount of coco pops for a
sugar hit. Fast forward to 6:30am and I have just finished
paddling the mad run out to the sets which are barrelling
righthanders about 5ft. I ducked dived one set and must hav
e put a half arse effort into it cos it dragged me back an
d smashed me hard. I hadn't taken a deep breath cos i thoug
h t i would just blast out the other side and when i got ba
ck up three more sets worked on me.


this is how
t he day started, I paddled like crazy and made it behind
the break where i decided to recover and try to get my ryth
em b ack. The coco pops are fighting me too by this stage a
nd wa s feeling like crap. my mate made it out and we decid
ed that our problem at this point was that we were thinking
three steps too far ahead. Because of the difficulty getti
ng out (cos there was no channel) we where thinking how to
get off the wave we were tryng to catch, consequently we we
re not catching anything.


Another set started to
roll i n and was breaking right on top of us, by now I was
totaled and just tryed to drive down under the wave but ag
ain was dragged into the break. I had nothing left, my card
io is sh ot and i could feel my pulse in just about every p
art of my body, I was just waiting for the aneurysm. My mat
e came ov er to rest after the bombardment of sets with me
out in the swell of the ocean WAY behind the sets where i p
rocceeded to feel like death UNTIL....


A small b
urp and a strong convolsion from my guts projected the coco
pops (exe rcist style, mouth wide open chunder streem in t
he middle) out into the ocean


Man thats what i n
eeded and i n 5 mins I was catching the fattest right hande
r tucked in tight in a barrel that thundered the lip of the
wave on the water. What a sound


The NMD is an a
mazing board and only spat the rail out once when i was rid
ing to high on the board. I can't wait to catch waves like
this on the new underwater digi 7.1mpx


Anyway e
nded the day with a cramped hamstring and thigh so i couldn
't stretch o ne out without the other locking out, all in a
ll it was an off day considering the size of the surf. My n
ew pod2 did r eally well in the larger surf but take soooo
much effort to push...just got to tuffen up


DONT
EAT COCO POPS BEFORE SURF!!

Right, I'm back after my firs
t run with the pod2's and I happy enough. They gave decent
w ave control and great thrust (only on short kick)
The
y did however try to come off which is not so cool, I think
t hey may have made the rubber just a little too soft and
so i dont see them lasting quite as long as my last pair of
fl ipper (tho for $90 they should)

So, after 45mins
on the road just to get to the beach I finnaly get there a
nd i t was very average. I headed out with the rip and stra
ight into the break, it was finishing high tide and was str
uggli ng to show some form. About an hour later the wind sw
ung ar ound to off shore and the tide began to go out, this
made f or some very steap drops. Did some great carves and
even go t some barrels but my rythem just wasn't leting me
surf wel l today.. for me its kinda tradition, if i have a
nything ne w, board, fins even a leash the first surf is al
ways a let down. Its a good thing cos in the back of your m
ind you alw ays have (well if xxxx happens these arn't
that good)
Looking forward to saturday, my next surf&nb
sp;to se e if the story changes.

I have an NMD Playe
r PE
& amp; a BZ Type P

Please leave a messag
e on my profil e as to what i should use on saturday - you
can choose only one! none of this "well if it is hollow tak
e the..."
Help me make my mind up!

I was at the beach at 5.50a m an
d  was in the water about 6.25am cos it takes a whi l
e t o walk to my break. I paddled out with my BZ Type
P af ter deciding to leave the NMD behind and used my viper
yell ow dot fins which are way too small. I found a comfor
t a ble break and settled into my rythem. I like to carve u
p an d down and maybe a few lip tp base cutbacks but n
ot in t erested in anything that breaks the flow of the wav
e or my speed like spinners etc. Not 15mins into it two old
er fell as rock up and cast 4 fishing lines right into my b
reak! It s not the first time this has happemed to me, a 3k
m beach to play with and they need my spot, needless to say
this ju st added a new dimention to BBing. Carving a wave
a nd du ck ing under and over the line streched into waves
wa s fun a n d they didnt seem to mind either.

So I
ke eped surfing a nd a freak set came in and i had to padd
le l ike crazy to g et into position. I made it to the pitc
h of the break and took off, FARK I havent ridden a wave th
at l asted that long for a long time. It was so good I rode
it to shore and thi s is when i relised i had ridden about
400m eters down the beach.(I will take a photo from where
it s tarted to where i w as next week)..
It was truely a
monumental ride, however , soon after this happened 15 + s
urfe rs and bodyboarder s tu rned up on this break. The fis
herme n had left and all that was left was me, my mate and
two su rfer with which we had a unspoken agreement.. a wave
each a nd line up and give way!  

This gr
oup of mofo's all just spewed out in to the break without a
nyconsid eration to the form of the br eak an d the people
who bothe red to go in earlier . I was ready to < >BRtake them all on (as in smash some respect into the
se ass-hats) 

The surfer just said well F% this
and went in and I suggested we do the same.
As i rode i
n (over them as many as i could) and gave them di
rty l ooks (cos I wanted to beat the snot out of the m) I n
otice d a shore break further down, so i took my own a dvic
e (this is a big beach so lets try somewhere else)

W e ended up on the fat-ests 4ft ful l barrells all t
o our s elves, its been soooo long since i have been a full
body le ngth into a barrel. It was so good I keeped g
oi ng unt il my body could take no more. No feeling in
my toes & two leg cramps and a giant tur d ready to dr
op anker.

cant help but think i was me nt to go the
re in the first place? 

Its the night before surfing, I have plans to get up at
5am to be in the water at 6am. I've looked at swell d irect
ion, wind direction, sea temp and satellite images of press
ure zones. I've watched 3 dvd's of all types of surf a nd n
ow have a RAGING BONER to hit the surf.

My weaponed
of choice is the BZ type P and leaving m y beloved NMD behi
nd may be a mistake but I need something light on account o
f my poor fitness level.

Now that I'm back down to one set of fins I'm l
eft w ith Viper Yellow dot. They are too small, have no thr
ust bu t give great control in the wave. If i could shoot t
he pric k who sold those to me I would!

So h ere I'am packed and randy @ 8pm, I'm not taken my
camera, s o no pics this time fellas because the surf doesn
't look gr eat.

Have a look tomoz (SATURDAY)

http://www.stic kybeek.com.au/surf/index2.html

View my profile for latest vid! cheers

I just purchased a retro 3pack dvd set with my fav bodyboar
d movie of all time the 1988 sandy beach contest "the trib
a l trials" with Mike Stewart special feature and Ben Seve
n so n special feature..

With that said my animated
gi f's in my gallery might be making way for some new one'
s .
So guys if you wanna save any of them you should d
o it in the next week or so! Also, if you have any requests
f or animation gif's I'd be happy to make you one

Well, I drove 3 hours north to port macquarie and had packe
d my Bz expecting to tear it up. When i got there tho it wa
s terrible, I dont think that this is normal for that area
but I was major disapointed.

One thing i noticed th
o, possible because it's a touristy place but.. I didn't se
e one person paddle out "properly".. everyone just jumped i
n right infront of the break, right when the sets were comm
ing in and againts the rip??

Tip: look for the V sh
ap of white wash, look for the undertoe (sand being dragged
out) either side of the white wash V and head out with the
undertoe, with the rip around the V shaped white wash then
cut across the rip into the break and try and time it to t
he sets...
dont paddle straight into wave after wave aga
inst the rip you look like a wolly!

Right,
there was some really nice swell coming into Merewether bea
ch today, in fact it even attracted the local news station.
Dozens of stand-ups trying to get these waves were getting
eaten off the drop. Then i saw one lone BB, He dropped so
late and stayed so deep in the barrel for what felt like 5
minutes!. YOU LEGEND.. you proved through skill that BB's r
ide harder into the danger zone and can come out victorious
. !!RESPECT!!

Board out of my brain this weekend, I have found myself
using google earth software to navigate the coast line for
new spots to surf. It rocks, you can see the direction of s
well and find the perfect coastline (SE facing with short c
ove as wind breaker. Recomended download people.. Find some
new waves in places you did know existed so close to you.< >BRhttp://earth.google.c
om/

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