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Well I have bought myself a pretty decent vid cam set up.&n
bsp; I fucken love filming eh.  Have always wanted a c
amera but neva had the funds.  I've only had it about
a month and already I"ve used it heaps.  As far as boo
ger footage goes, I've recorded 30 minutes from 5 surfs in
less than 3 weeks.  After filtering thru the crap stuf
f I managed to get 2 1/2 minutes of actually good riding -
worthy of a vid.  In only 5 surfs.  SWEET! 
Can't wait to see how a year of footage goes. 

If anyone knows any good downloadable editing programs the
n please tell me, coz I'm kooking it at trying to put music
to a vid.  Driving me nuts.

Back in NZ in 3 dayz.  Back to good time, cold water,
heavy waves and life as a bum. 

Fuck it, I ain
't working for at least a month - time off.  Bit of R
& R for the needy.

Time is ticking

Well I've done it!  Made the huge decision of going ho
me to NZ to no job but happy times with waves at my front d
oor.  Leaving behind Surabaya and the Booger factory.&
nbsp; See ya later Surabaya - it's been interesting living
in your city to say the least. 

10 days and I'
ll be back in NZ, 11 days and I'll be back in my home town
of Greymouth - anticipating the next swell with offshore wi
nds.  I miss you Blaketown.  C you soon.

< >BR

Take your dream job, put it in a busy city where theres no
surf and then see how you go!  I'm struggling with san
ity.  Waves are a half hour flight away, world class w
aves at that.  But that can prove to be costly if you'
re doing it every wkend.  So how does one cope with th
ese demons?  Start a new hobbie?  Yoga maybe, tha
t would help with the stress at least.  How long will
I last before I snap?  This has happened to me once be
fore.  Moved to city, no surf.  6 months later =
broken relationship + relocation.  What to do, what to
do? 

Weigh up the pro's and cons.  Dream
Job, good money and next to no surf OR No Job, bugger
all money and surf almost every day.  These are my de
mons.  Rich and unhappy OR Poor and happy. 
< >BRIn 2 months we'll see what I've chosen...

Had the funnest, scariest and smelliest surf last nite
.  Finally got home after heading to chch for the wken
d and went straight to the beach.  Wave trap was consi
stently doin its thang so I suited up and paddled over the
river to get some brown goodness.  Caught a few waves
and realised that it got a bit sketchy on the inside - basi
cally do or die.  Spent most of my time on the Knee.&n
bsp; Then I got this one that I knew was gonna pit on the i
nside.  Late drop so I had to go the gut, dropped down
chucked in a reverse then set up for the baz.  Didn't
really get pitted.  But then I noticed the section.&n
bsp; Looked at the lip - then back at the rocks - back at t
he lip and thought 'fu*k it'.  Hit it, tweaked an inny
, landed and then got dragged over the poo infested rocks.&
nbsp; Luckily I didn't get hurt, got cramp in both legs tho
.

  As I was sitting out the back my thoughts d
rifted to my mate Johnny who had just recently severed his
spine whilst surfing (stand up) in Bali.  I went and v
isited him the day b4 this surf.  It was sooo heart-br
eaking to see my mate sitting in an electric chair paralyse
d from the chest down, helpless and breathless. 
Should I have punted that inny on my last wave?  I cou
ld've ended up like Johnny, all the time in the world, stru
ggling with demons, unable to clean himself - paralysed.&nb
sp; Its the little things in life that we all take for gran
ted, like walking or even scratching your own arse.  M
y thoughts are with you Johnny.  Heres to a speedy rec
overy.

Well last nite was noo good.  Blaketown was washing
thru.  Gutted.  Tonite is another nite tho. 
; Hoping that banks will be firing and the swell less disor
ganised.  Hope is funny thing.

Ah roll on 5 o'clock.  Giong straight to beach and
hopefully get some fun Blaketown action.  Can't wait f
or daylight savings to come back and then more surfing for
me.  At the moment only get about 45 mins surfing time
after work.  Tick, there goes the clock, another minu
te drags on.  Ahhh.

Waves here I come.  Ye
e haa.