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The other day at Gloria Jeans i
was in the line with a few of my mates getting some coffee.
These two groms came up to us and asked for a $1 because o
ne of them lost their coins in the surf. Despite the sour
r eaction from my friends, i curiously asked whether they w
er e bodyboarders or standups. They replied, 'bodyboarders'
. s o i said 'ohh guys wait theyre bodyboarders...here's a
buck .'' After a friendly high five and short conversation
on th e subject of Island and the outrageous idea that i wa
s a '' booger'' the two groms were much appreciative of my&
nbsp;'' generous'' donation and headed off to sip on their
libation s. None of my girlfriends are bodyboarders (except
Laura V) , but it was funny to see how differently we trea
t other pe ople if theyre one of our own. Dissimilar t
o the surfing community, our bodyboarding community i
s one that h as an intimate and humble relationship, a
nd little&nbs p;deeds like this make everyone feel like
they belong in th at family just a touch more. So&nbs
p;next time u see a few groms with no change at the pa
yphone, lend them a buck. if u see a booger on the&nbs
p;side of the road with no lift, hitch him a ride to the st
ation. if ur alone in the water with a few of our
species, intr oduce urself and talk about the swell.
its all about the sm all things in everyday life which
help build a stronge r community among us bodyboarder
s, and i promise u tha t not only will the receiver be rewa
rded, but there&nb sp;is a hidden prize in it
for you as well.
< BR>Keep the stoke alive
kids.
x x&nbs p;
;
My schooling career, after 12
long years, has finally come to an end as i step out into
the big world: nervous, a little afraid of what is to becom
e of my life yet excited of the endless opportunities and e
xperiences which have been presented to me! Think about it.
...this world we live in is pretty massive, there is so muc
h to see and do, people to meet, places to be...!! i just w
anna make sure i experience as much of the world as possibl
e, and not put anything off for tomorrow which can be done
today. The possibilities are endless and it really is up to
the individual to (as the good people at Nike say) &n
bsp; 'just do it' !
Sincerely,
liz
Is it just me, or is it true that whenever things in life s
eem to be going all to plan and you have met the person of
your dreams, everything seems to fall apart when u least ex
pect it. That just happened to me about 1/2 hour ago. Shatt
ered the the inside. The good thing about the bod
yboarding life is no matter what it will never let you
down. Positive.
Tomorrow my
12 year-old miniature boy poodle Sandy is getting put to s
leep. After a few months of procrastinating, my family deci
ded it is in the best interests of the dog, since his quali
ty of life is low: he has diabetes requiring 2 injections a
day, is totally blind, and also takes arthritis tablets ev
ery day. Its not committment or hassle that is the problem,
just that he used to be such an active and happy dog like
taking him to the sandhills at Cronulla, but now all he can
do is sleep, eat and shit. Its a pretty sad thing, i
remember him being with me as far as my childhood memo
ries go (which isnt very far) but a shout out to&
nbsp;all those dog-owners, or even pet-owners, make the mos
t of the time you spend with them, bcuz you never know when
their time may run out. Sorry for the depressing journal e
ntries lately guys. Promise im not depressed or nething.
As you already know i've bin going 2 physio for t
he past 4 weeks for my back injury, and last week i was tol
d that my time at physio was complete. at first i was prett
y happy to hear that from the guy, but then he told me i wi
ll always be in pain if i do pole vault, and for bodyboardi
ng (though my technique can be modified to suit it) due to
the scoliosis in my back. He basically said i would never m
ake it to national representative pole vault because my bac
k wasnt designed for it. This is because pole vault and bod
yboarding obviously put alot of stress on the lower part of
the back, even if you dont have back problems, but scolios
is means more pressure is exerted on that area.
So had
a few sniffles about that for the rest of the day, and deci
ded to slowly ease back into training again this week, no p
lanting the pole or exercises that may aggravate the pain.
Planning on sussing it out and seeing what happens, otherwi
se the prospects of giving it up may have to be accepted. I
m obviously pretty upset bout that, but the physio said i c
an always prove him wrong n go all the way because i have t
he right bodyshape, speed and most importantly passion for
it. I think im mature enough to decide what is best for my
body, whether id rather achieve limited goals in the short
term and have severe arthritic problems in 10 years time...
......
Yesterday also marked my first surf back after 5
weeks of cold turkey. Let me tell you now, not surfing for
that long is pretty hard to deal with, seeming that the oce
an is my ultimate sanctuary. I went to island, my favourite
wave, the first wave i caught was probably about 3ft or so
draining over the reef going onto lowtide, had a brief rid
e and was dragged backwards across whiterock on my arse and
back. I guess it was island's way of saying, 'welcome back
!' after island i took the 100m long paddle to point and fe
d off some fun sucky wide rights. My first surf back i gain
ed fulfilled satisfaction and happiness, some fun condition
s, the usual staring ovation of male boogers watching
my every move in the water, a few more scars on the sl
ick and a tenderised behind!
No matter whether i can po
le vault or not, i certainly could never erase bodyboarding
from my life. Without it i would be a totally differe
nt person in every aspect, and disrespectful to my dreams&n
bsp;in the future and how much i owe to the sport
for my past and present. It truly is a way of life, a
nd im willing to conquer pain in the best way i can to
maintain this sweet relationship between my soul and the u
npredictable ocean.
Take care
Liz
<
>/FONT
For the first time in 2 months and after 2
weeks of physio (4 or more left) ive bin able 2 arch my bac
k into the natural paddling position without being in pain.
therez still plenty of room for improvement in many other
parts of my back, rock solid tightness and what not, and my
legs r pretty bad too. still was hell stoked 2 beable 2 do
that. have a bit more faith in making a full recovery
eventually. sweet.
As
you probably already know, i've bin suffering from lower b
ack soreness for over a year now from a bodyboarding and tr
iggered by a bad plant in po le vault. had all the x-rays,
MRI's and bone scans that u c ould poke a stick at, n its s
hown that there r no stress fractures, but soft tissue dama
ge n overuse in my back and upper legs. as a result, i have
bin advised 2 stop bodyboardi ng and pole vault completely
for 6 weeks to start off with, while doing physio and regu
lar stretching. already, i have nt bin for a surf in 2 week
s, the last surf i had out at 5f t island was painful with
little success n left me curled in a ball on the ground for
1/2hr after i got out of the water.
as disapointed as
i am to be out of the water, i suppose it will be worth it
since il beable 2 improve my pole vaulting and flexibility
in the water without being in pain. i guess il have 2 procr
astinate for the moment, see how it goes, and film what im
missing out on.....hopefully not too much!
How good was it today on the east coast!!!!! let us know wh
ether u went any awesome waves on satday or sunday. cant wa
it to get my footage from suckrock, mystics, voodoo, redsan
ds n island, yiuueeeeewww!!!!!!
The other day it was photo day n so as year 12s we had t
o do a muckup photo too, so being as obsessed as i am,
i came in my steamer and thong high heels for the photo, u
naware of how hot i was soon guna become! 1/2 hr went by an
d temperatures rose to over 60 degrees inside my wetty, des
perately tryin to cool down the fire by splashing myself un
der the bubblers. the foto came n went n i ended up sweatin
g so profusely inside my wetsuit that my body overheated n
i dehydrated n had a headache for the rest of the day......
......so worth it but ahha
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