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Back to back sessio
ns for the first tim e in awhile for me.  Very rusty a
nd very tired.  The scene both days was not even close
to epic, but it was exactly what I needed.  For some
reason lately I have been sketched before I've even gotten
out to the lineup, an d I've just had this uneasy feeling w
hen I've been out in t he water.  It's funny how occas
ionally we get into a f unk without any instnace to st
art it; it just happens.   A week ago I went to Rincon
, paddled out, size was O H+ occasional DOH, and as soon as
I got out there I turned around and paddled straight in.&n
bsp; Alarms where goi ng off in my head, and someone w
as screaming over the loud speaker "get out of here, and ba
ck to shore now."  Usu ally I would charge that stuff,
but not lately, and hopeful ly all that has changed with t
he last two days, and a new w et suit, and some new fins.&n
bsp; I was having a blast out there the past couple of days
just messing around. &nb sp;The swell lately on t
he west coast has been cranking and there looks to be no si
gn of it stopping.  Here is to a Merry Christmas and&n
bsp;a Happy New Year to all!&n bsp; May Santa brin
g you all the waves you can handle.  ;

Found a new spot today that I had never sponged before.&nbs
p; Originally my friend and I were going to go to Rincon bu
t there was only one problem.  NO WAVES!  So, we
drove around a bit until we stumbled on this not very well
know spot called Fariah Park.  Getting in and out was
treacherous, all rocks, and the tide was really high, so ge
tting pummelled on the rocks was a possibility.  There
was an alternate exit, a tiny strip of sand, but the paddl
e was about 500yrds.  In the future I recommend to any
one including myself to gett out at the stri
p of sand.  Once we got out there I managed to score s
ome good waves.  Sized ranged from head high to a few
feet overhead, and at times it was ledgy.  Caught one
bomb that everyone was hollering about.  Felt good.&nb
sp;

After being out of the water for about
2 weeks due to having a nasty cold I made it to Pismo
for a session.  I was stoked, good friend was suppose
to go along, I had visions of the break I usually sponge wo
rking to perfection.  Nothing ever goes as planned.&nb
sp; My friend bails on me.  I forgave him.  When
I get there the wave is not working like I dreamnt it would
.  I made the most of what was a semi dissapointing da
y, and was left dreaming of this winter when the big mackin
g swells will make all of those magical points break.< >BR
Due to breaking up with my girlfriend about a month
ago I am also left dreaming.  Dreaming of loves lost.&
nbsp; Dreaming of some of those nights together.  Drea
ming of that perfect girl who is still out there waiting fo
r me.  Where are you?

It would appear that I ha
ve been given some lemons lately, and I have to say I make
some damn good lemonade.  What else can you do. 
Learn from yesterday, make the most of today, and dream of
tomorrow.

Well I just got back from a three day e
xcursion to the famed break called Churches, which is just
down the beach from Trestles.  A few of you may have h
eard of it.  Camped out with a few friends, drank some
beer, shot the shit; the campsite was right in front of th
e main peak so when you weren't sponging you could wat
ch some really good surfing, and all of the really cute gir
ls.  Size ranged all three days in the head to over he
ad range.  All in all it was a good weekend.

I have not written an entry in awhile s
o here it goes.  Been sponging at Pismo quite a bit la
tely on the North side of the pier.  Had some good day
s, fun size summer swell.  Pismo can be good during th
e summer, good fun clean waves, lots of beautiful scantily
clad women, good waves, women, you get the point.  Fin
ally made an effort to learn how to go dropknee, and I did
it!  Have not mastered it yet, but I am getting there.
  Took some beatings, but in the long run I think it w
as a good move.  Definately harder than it looks. 
; Funny thing, had a session today at Pismo and I was watch
ing the news tonight, and there was a report of a Grea
t White in the area!  What to do, what to do.  Go
sponging, a little shark never hurt anyone.  Big trip
planned for this coming weekend, going to Trestles/Churche
s, and wouldn't you know it a good SW swell is due in. 
; What luck.  Probably will hit Malibu on the way down
too.  Looking forward to some good waves and warmer w
ater.  Should be a good weekend to just unplug. 
Nothing but camping, sponging, playing guitar around camp f
ire, and who knows what else.  Till next time...

Why can't I be the member of the month?
  I'm cool and hip.  Who does the voting?  I
want answers!  LOL...

Went to Hawaii, the island of Oahu t
o be specific, a couple of weeks ago, and managed to g
et a few sessions in.  Best place I sponged was "the w
all", was lucky to catch a good south swell one of the days
and it was going off, not crowded either for the dawn patr
ol session.  Checked out "Sandies" and when I go back
will probably go in there if it is not too big.  Makap
u looked good too, so I guess I am going to have to go back
so I can sponge both of those places.

Now back in C
ali the wind has been ferocious and the surf has had a lot
of bump on it lately, just not good conditions.  Hopef
ully my surf crew and I can find some clean conditions tomo
rrow.

On another note I met a girl, and we have been
going out, and I think I am falling for her.  We just
click and she surfs too, besides she is gorgeous!  I
guess the best things come along when you are not looking f
or them.

Peace to everyone out there and keep rippin
.

Recently I have been out surfing severa
l time over the past week, but nothing really to right home
about.  Surfed at 3 different places Jacks, Refugio,
and Landings.  Today I surfed Landings and it was bump
y, but I managed to score some decent waves.  Size ran
ged from waist to chest high and the water was cold, around
52'.  Just hoping for some warm water, clean conditio
ns, and decent size.  Is that asking for too much?&nbs
p;

I am going to Hawaii next week, specifically the
island of Oahu.  Anyone out there recommend any good
spots to go while I am over there? 

Last night
I went to a surf movie premier in Santa Barbara.  Tit
le was "Chasing Dora" and it was not too bad of a flick eve
n if it was a surf movie.  There was a little concert
before hand in which Todd Hannigan "thicker than water" pla
yed and so did Tom Curran.  A few of surfings roy
alty were there.  Wish the same could happen for a bod
yboard movie, but I won't hold my breath.

Today I went sponging at a local reef b
reak named Jacks.  The wave is very steep and ledgy, a
nd the take off can sometimes be difficult.  This plac
e is known for big, spitting barrels, but today that was no
t the case.  Today it was small, drooling barrels, 4-6
ft at best.  I managed to catch a few good waves the m
ost memorable involving a 4ft air drop into the pit. 
One minute there was water underneath me and the next there
wasn't.  Summer is just around the corner and with it
means warmer temperatures which I am looking forward to.&n
bsp; Unfortunately summer means the the big storms which ha
ve been spawning incredible surf this winter well be shutti
ng off.  I guess we can not have everything.

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