Woah! wot a supa weekend!..partyd 3 nytes in a row,fri,sat
and xmas eve! totally unplanned, and rocking! experienced a
christmas with artificial snow falling..what an amazi
ng experience! now i no how the u.s feels over xmas..insane
!
Surf was up and pumping! i was blessed by the lord
and was given quality 5ft surf on xmas morning! had it all
to myself, the best gift ever and thank you lord for givin
g it to me! surfd a gud 4 times over the festive weekend an
d always above the 4ft mark! Blessed this wend i was..excep
t for my last surf session!
Surfin a wildside secret
spot in my home town, decent, hollow dredging 5ft beasts..
my surf was going pretty wel! putting 1 foot up and tearin
the beasts apart, i was in pure heaven..until...
I c
aught an insider benchin on the 4 odd foot mark, my 'no hol
ds barred' attitude took over my natural instincts, i set u
p for the drive down the face,bottom turned deeply to make
the dredgin barrel which was breaking on pretty much a foot
of water..pulled in and set up for the barrel of a lifetim
e, what a barrel it was,came out clean with no probs..a tru
e beaut! instead of accepting the gracious gift i had just
ben given,claiming my stoke and going back to the outside l
ine up..i decided to pursue the wave to the end! after carv
ing the remainder of the face, i set up for the big final..
Dk off the lip slash..my timing and execution of the move w
ere spot on..this was my day and i was taking no prisoners.
.but unfortunately 4 me it was not so..after my landing, th
e insider had abrubtley reached wot was pretty much dry ree
f..my board came to a grinding holt..projecting me onto an
exposed and upright piece of reef, my left side of my rib c
age took the 1st blow and my left hip successively taking t
he 2nd! 3 bruised and very tender ribs, a brusied hip, scar
tches on my chest and my hip, a brand new R2500.00 billabon
g wettie which is torn and a R3000.00 customised elomenopee
boardyboard all taken down..board and wettie are toast..im
toast but i will heal!
Question i ask myself..Was i
t worth it?
Answer: Hell Yeah! It was and i'll do it
again! (stupidity u say? A love 4 the sport and passion is
wot i say!)
But in all honesty..im supa bummed bout
my board n my wetti!
Now i gota find a new board! A
aaargh!
i have just had the insanest wend of my life! this is ho
w it all started.......
Friday eve, decided to take it m
ellow and relax..play some ps 2, chill out n have sum good
sups! but alas my dream was not meant to be, my mate R
on popped in for a visit and along with him came a cou
ple of bottles of sum top quality wine n champers..after nj
oyin the quality supplied,with our buzz on, we decided to h
it the town..spots included were old grey,moloko, and toby
joes..my home town local club..eventually get home round th
e 4 in the morning mark..but neway! i had a blast,danced my
ass off and had such a rad time!saw good friends hear
d good music and partied! Superb!
Sunday
was my day of redemption, got invited to a Camel Exper
ience party, was set up wit hotel accomadation, a 5 * dinne
r (Sushi,Tiger Prawns,Dessert),Open tab bar,a booze cruise
on the canals in st Francis bay,a private party with a
private dj,breakfast this morning and a beach party to top
it all off..It was insane, was treated like a king and the
nicest part..it was all on the house courtesy of Camel&nbs
p;Experience!
Will be posting sum sick foto's
of friday and sunday eve shortly..prob up tomorrow..check i
t out..Hope all had a smashing wend lik me....?
Peace an
d love...
Phew!, wot a crazy week, work has been killer and today is
the day of redemption! The weekend is here, i got a phat pa
rty on this eve, prediction of good swell for the weekend!
what more could i ask for??? its time for the beach, waves
and to relax..im so happy, cause its a few solid hours of g
rafting and then i got 48 hours off from the world man..to
all who also do the monday to friday grafting thing..this i
s ur moment aswell..friday has either dawned or is yet to s
til..wake up and scream
Thank
Goodness
Its
Friday!!!!!! check out my profile mond
ay..new picks will be up, and a full report will be in the
journal..cause this is a BIG wend! To all who are friends a
nd to all who might be or just stop by..have a massive
ly,superb,smashin, gr8 wend, have fun, be safe, and njoy..P
eace..catch you on the flipside!
Its a Gr8 day, sunny day and Im stoked as ever! Had some qu
ality waves yest arvi and i recieved my Digi cam's new unde
rwater housing..i was snapping away like a beast yest aswel
l and scored sum sick photo's! I couldnt be happier rite no
w..had good surf, got quality foto's and its nearly xmas wh
ich is always a good time of the year! Family, fun, sun, be
ach, waves, parties, good ppl..what more could a person ask
for?
If you gona hit it...hit it hard...
Pea
ce..