What a gorgeous reef I saw yesterday in La Jolla!
Even before I went out to ride, I was captivated by
the beautiful clear waters, the intricate tidepools
and the teeming marine life along this wonderful stretch o
f the
coast! It was my first time to the area so I just took
a while and looked at everything before I suited up
to try and find where the bodyboarders were
supposed to be.

I drove along the coast and through the
neighborhoods hoping to see someone in the water.
This fellow from another message board (805bbr) had
said he was headed to La Jolla Reefs and I could come
surf with them if I could find 'em! I finally came upon
a lone surfer who was suiting up and he pointed me
towards a beach called "wind and sea". So... off I went.

I parked across the street and walked over to where I
could just make out the figure of a solitary bodyboarder
tearing it up on a beautiful cresting wedge of surf! He wa
s great!
I watched him for a bit and then figured... "this has to b
e the guy!"
So.. I pulled on my wettie and my new boots, grabbed my fi
ns and
headed down to meet a new friend.

As I was paddling out.... I was both amazed and frighte
ned.
Under the clear waters was a beautiful maze of reef with k
elp and sea grasses all over. It was spectacular! But I als
o realized that if I were
to actually catch a wave and come crashing in onto this re
ef....
my big butt (as well as other vital body parts) could easi
ly
sustain some serious damage! I remembered my new friend
Steve and his tattoo... "The sea hates a coward." So... I
took a few deep breaths and paddled out to where the big,
beautiful waves were breaking. (thanks Steve)

In the time it took me to get out... the other bodyboar
der
had caught and simply manhandled...oh... at least 5-7 big
waves. He would catch them underneath and paddle furiously
til he was up on the side of the crest in absolutely PERFE
CT position
to come ripping across the face. He even managed to do som
e spins as
he went flying by. (the RAT BASTARD! I muttered.... I wann
a do THAT!!!!)

Meanwhile, as I bobbed there watching "how it is done".
.. the surfers started to arrive. As they paddled past me..
. I must have had a pretty dumbfounded look on my face beca
use several stopped to ask if I was alright. "Yeah... I'm a
lright" ..... just pissed at myself for not being able to d
o what I wanna do.... The waves kept comin' and I was just
duck diving and bobbing around like an arse.

I built up my resolve and started to kick... determined
to catch the next good wave and prove to myself (and yeah.
..I admit it... this guy) that I could actually hang. Here
it came....a perfect wedge... clean and big....and heading
right for me. I kicked hard and felt myself rising up on to
p... I pushed down on the nose and committed to the drop in
. Oh boy..... what a variety of emotions! Delight at actual
ly catching it! Panic...at...actually catching it! Terror a
t being under the water for what seemed an eternity. And...
. elation at feeling the sea air fill my lungs as I finally
broke the surface again. Now mind you... I didn't say I ro
de the thing well....... I slid down it... awkwardly at bes
t....survived a good tossing about and came up in the wash
with a smile. It still counts for something though!

When I looked around to see where the other bodyboarder
was... he at least gave me a wave and a smile now. Nice to
know that my near death experience was witnessed by someon
e! lol Anyways.... after that he and the others were a bit
more friendly. I still tried to stay out of their way mostl
y. But the next time the bodyboarder caught a awesome ride.
..and ripped it up.... I yelled to him... "I wanna do THAT!
" So.. as we were paddling out, he actually chatted with me
a bit and explained that even though the reef was below us
, it was fairly deep and I wasn't likely to be smashed on i
t. (how comforting...lol) Turns out he was an Australian. H
e looked familiar... but.. I dunno where I'd know him from
unless he's on this board or the other. Anyways... he was r
eally, really good... and I hope that after a while... I'll
get good enough to at least be able to catch a wave SORT O
F like he could... It was beautiful to watch.... What a bea
utiful day all around!