I definitely "got" the definition of "walled up" today..
..

It was the last day of my trip..... so I got up early
for my first ever early morning surf venture. 7AM.....cold
....
and foggy.... with all my gear stil wet from the day befor
e.
Man!!! I was even surprised myself that I was willing to g
o
through all of that just to be able to possibly catch some

waves before heading back home. I guess I really am a
bodyboarder.... even if I'm not a great one yet!

There were a lot of bodyboarders and surfers in the
water already. The pier is pretty popular and it's always
been busy every time I've ever been to Manhattan Beach.
But this time was different. I was amazed at how the waves
looked. I never noticed it before. It was just solid wave
with no peak! I learned later that when it breaks
like that... it's called being "walled out". I didn't like
it.
It made me realize just how beautiful that big wedge
in La Jolla really was...... just a perfect, beautiful
wave. Ahhhh......

Because there were few times when the wave was
breaking cleanly, all the other bodyboarders and even some

surfers were jockeying for position. And... I was too tire
d
to be very adept at manuevering to catch any of the few
good waves that came along. My 5 hours of surfing
yeaterday left me pretty worn out today. I ended up visiti
ng
a friend and then driving home, which took another 6 hours
.

It was a good trip. I met some nice people and learned
more about bodyboarding. I think I know the difference bet
ween
a rideable wave and a bad wave. Now... I just have to lear
n how
to be able to ride all the rideable waves that come my way
! lol