I just woke up... still a bit sore from yesterday's
session. The waves were only about 3-4 feet for most
of the day. But, I needed the practice so I was happy
to have some consistent rides to practice my kick offs
and my steering. I wasn't that thrilled about the cold
Northern California water. Brrrrr ...it's been really
cold this week. It even snowed here which is very
unusual.

I can't say that I have mastered the steering yet
as the real test will come when I try to ride some
decent sized waves with a litle more oomph! I still
don't understand how people can catch these small
waves....or the inside waves. I'm usually the farthest
one out... hanging with the standups...waiting for the
bigger waves. Yesterday was more of a day for
longboarders I guess...as they appear to be able
to ride anything small or slow...doesn't seem to
matter to them.

I did get the hang of turning a bit though! I actually
figured out how to do a little spin around at the end to
get out of the wash at the end of my rides. That was
fun! But I'm still wanting to learn how to ride down the
clean face of a fast moving wave...keeping just ahead of
the curl until the barrel catches up or... maybe even stee
ring
up to the lip and catching a little air! .....
(patience grasshopper......lol)

I spent about 3 hours in the surf before it got dark.
The sunset was gorgeous as it had been fairly sunny all
day. The few lone clouds off in the distance gave off a
pink and purple aura as the last orange streaks of sunligh
t
fought to stay above the waterline. It was beautiful.