So... I just got back from a nice afternoon of good surf
and good company. Met a new friend on another message
board and he lives just a few miles away. We surfed Linda
Mar from about noon to 3pm. The sky was clear blue, the
water temperature was bearable, offshore winds with 3-6
foot swells and a few nice corner spots with clean lefts
and a few spunky rights from time to time. All in all, a
great day... and I have nothing to be complaining about.

But I am frustrated and pissed at myself. Yeah.... I'm
still learning. And.. I got a few sloshy rides. And, I eve
n
managed to catch one nice ride where I was able to trim
across the face for a bit. Yep... I learned to steer! I
should be happy!

But I'm pissed at myself because I am a hardheaded you-
know-what. My inability to catch good rides today... and m
y
extraordinarily weak paddling out was a direct result
of "the black & tan effect". My arms and legs felt like
lead pipes as i tried to get through the first break. I ha
d
no strength and the sea knew it! At one point... I was
paddling and paddling through some big surf and I was
so slow and so tired. I just gave up and watched helpless
ly
as this giant wave literally "spanked me". It just crashed
right
on my bum and gave me a right smart whack.

I deserved it. You see.... I'm a diabetic.... and....
the "black & tan" is a great big ice cream sundae that I
ordered at Fenton's Ice Cream Parlour here in Oakland,
California yesterday. And... even though I didn't eat the
whole thing.... (as Marco pointed out... I'm a big, fat la
dy)
and I had no business having ANY of it. Yeah,...it tasted
alright. But all that sugar running through my blood
just bogged me down and cost me the energy to be
able to surf well today.

It wasn't worth it. I missed out on some really
nice waves today! And for my stupidity......and
unreasonable belief that I am indestructible.... I am
truly pissed off at myself. But.. I also know that...
tomorrow is another day... so... I'll just have to start n
ow....
and.... do my best to make better choices. I just have to
remember that for me.... sugar is just like alcohol
to an alcoholicand my body isn't going to tolerate it.

One day at a time..... ::sigh::