I really needed to surf today.... but the waves were
total crap this afternoon. So.... I decided that I'd have
to
drive about an hour south to find a decent spot. I was
tired after work.. but determined to at least get an hour
or two in the water before the sun went down. I was pretty

disappointed after driving all that way to find the 3-5 ft

waves in the forecast.... were more like 1-2 ft and even t
he
longboarders were hardly getting any rides. :-(

I know I said I'd rather surf than drive,.. but this
was ridiculous! So, I got back in the car and drove past
some of the other spots in that area. I drove all the way
to the last spot, stopping alopng the way to watch. One
spot had 2 bodyboarders... and no waves. Another spot
also had 2 bodyboarders... again, no waves. The only spot
that looked sort of good was this spot that is notorious a
s
a standup only spot where they are mean to non locals and
hate bodyboarders. I stopped to watch and then I saw him!
One lone bodyboarder and about 7 standups in the lineup.
I know it was kind of brazen... but I decided that it was

not very crowded and... and... well.... I wanted to surf t
oo!

I suited up nervously. I knew I wasn't up the the
level of these guys. But I was willing to try and follow
all the rules and stay the heck outta their way. I figured

maybe I could just hang on the inside and catch some of
the smaller waves that reformed. But first... I had to cli
mb
down some really slippery algae covered rocks and get into

the water fast before a wave came and smashed me onto said
rocks.... yikes! It was definitely a challenge!

Then I had to paddle out past this otter that was
hanging around the inside break watching people. Just then

a big wave rose up and the bodyboarder guy caught it! He
was riding my direction and when he went by he gave me a
friendly wave. This was encouraging! Then ... he paddled b
ack
out and actually invited me to come over to the spot where

he was hanging out... which was a really good spot where
the waves break against the cliff and form these fat half
wedges.
I didn't actually catch any rides from that spot... kinda
close to the rocks for a newbie like me! But I was very ha
ppy
and surprised at how nice everyone was being in the water
.
I did get in the way a couple times accidentally.... it f
e
lt awful. I just wasn't familiar enough with the spot to b
e
able to judge how fast the standups were closing the gap
f
rom the outside break. And... this place is like... pretty

right all rights.. and I'm more used to rideing lefts. But

after a while... I sterted to see how the waves were break
i
ng.

The good news for me..... I caught a few little rides..
. nothing to brag about.... but still... I was riding dece
n
t waves... in a spot where I never thought I would surf. A
s
the sun was setting... I was just on my board smiling...
l
ooking up at the lighthouse and the people walking by and
w
atching. And I was just really happy to be one of the peop
l
e out in the water... playin' with the big boys!