Maybe it's just me........ but I really don't like
riding foam.

Today i went out to a popular break that I hardly ever
go to. I rarely go there because it is a total bitch to
get out past the inside break. I was surfing with a
buddy who goes there a lot. We spent about an hour
getting pounded by medium to big sized foamy waves.
I was not a happy camper.

I could see the surfers out past the break.... so... I
finally had enough and just paddled out. It took some
effort but it was worth it as it was pretty big and
somewhat cleaner out there. After I rested a bit...
I actually caught a pretty nice ride. The bad news...
now I was back on the inside getting pounded.

I asked my buddy if he usually surfed inside or outside
because he was sort of staying on the inside and I really

wanted to get back outpast that mushy, pounding foam. He
said outside! So... as soon as the next lull in the waves

came along... I yelled "let's go"... and we paddled out.
We paddled so good... that before we realized it...
we were WAAAY too far out!!! I looked back and we had
completely blown past the surfer guys.... and the waves
were really big....
this seemed like a bad thing! lol

We didn't panic.... but I think we both realized that
we had better get back in quickly. This beach is famous
for it's riptides! (yikes) We stayed cool.... and we
finally made it to where the surfers were. And when
we got out of their way a bit.... this big wave came
along and we both took off! It was a nice ride....

Am I the only one who hates riding foam???? Yeah... it
was a little nerve wracking to ride the bigger waves that
were out farther.... but I'd much rather try those waves
than deal with those foamy inside pounders.