Today was good for me.... until I just heard
that a guy drowned at that foamy break I wrote
about earlier this week. He was trying to help
2 kids who got pulled out in the riptide. The
kids made it in, but he drowned. Totally
sucks....
My buddy had called me to see if I wanted to
surf that break this morning.... but I was already
at another break when he called. I never like to
surf that spot. Ocean Beach. I know people say it's
supposed to be a good spot.... but it always gives
me bad vibes. Maybe because a lot of people have
drowned there.