What a great day! Even though we have a special
summer class all this week... I took my board to school
so that I could go right to the beach afterwards. It was
actually a pretty fun class, but I was still glad to go wh
en
it was time.
I couldn't check on the swell.... but I figured there
wasn't going to be much anywhere. So....I remembered
my lesson and headed to my spot. As I went over the
bridge into San Francisco, the fog was really coming in.
The closer I got to the beach..... the colder... and foggi
er
it got. I was starting to think this was going to be a
wasted trip.... and.. I was pretty tired. The thought of
having to drive back home in rush hour traffic... was
not good.
I decided to have some faith... and just keep driving.
I was now within sight of the coast..... but.... due to th
e fog...
it was impossible to see the water. I just kept driving. U
p and
over the hill and... VOILA! Sunshine!!!. I was very happy.
:-)
I ran into Susanna again and met her friend.... that wa
s
nice to have some buds to hang with in the water. The wave
s
were pretty mellow and small... but still fun. I practice
d catching
waves and trying to sort of paddle INTO the wave and then
turn.
This is a new way of catching a wave for me. But.. it seem
s like
pretty much the ONLY way to catch smaller waves as my "ove
r
the falls method" only works if the waves are big and powe
rful.
I surfed for about 3 1/2 hours. I love being on the water
when the sun is setting.
Afterwards.. I was cold and starving.... Thank God for
Denny's! Breakfast for dinner...mmmmmmmmm
Anyway... I'm too tired to articulate some "Doogie Hous
er"
profundity..... but suffice it to say.... I was reminded t
o have
faith in what has proven itself to be true.