A good day at my favorite spot. I got off to a late
start and hit the middle of the shift from low to high
tide. There's a high pressure system moving in on the
coast, so the fog is back. The waves were bigger today.
The forecast said 3-5 feet.... but some of then sure did
look big as they came crashing down around me!

I sort of blew it because the inside breaks were
really rough and vreaking close together. It was hard
paddling to the outside. As soon as I got outside.... a
really good wave came... and.. I took it! A really fun lef
t!
But I rode it too far.... and darn! .... I ended up caught
in
the pounding inside breaks. It took me forever to get
back out. And.. the rest of the session was fun... but I h
ad
pretty much used up most of my energy paddling out two
times in a row.

It was fun catching some bigger waves though! I
surfed about 3 hours and the sea was kind of churning
and really.....rough. I got spanked good and tossed about
a few times by some pretty big waves. By the time I got
out of the water, I was so cold that I could barely get my
fins off.

I talked to this surfer guy, Bruce, in the parking lot.

He pretty much confirmed what I've veen thinking. I need
a bigger board. I like my 42.5.... but let's face it... I'
m a
big gal! I think on my camping/surfing trip next week that
I might stop by a couple of shops in SoCal and see about
getting a new board soon. I think I need like.... a 45....
with
a couple of stringers. Maybe I will try some out next week
end
at Imperial Beach in San Diego. They are having a
bodyboarding event there and board companies will have new
product lines for people to try out. Plus.... free hot dog
s! lol