.....so to speak!
Had a pleasant session mid-morning, high tide at Del Ma
r. Passed by Windansea and Blacks... but... I just wanted t
o go somewhere mellow. I caught half a dozen or so decent r
ides. The waves were pretty slow rolling... but every once
ion a while a nice, big pusher would come through. (yeah!)<
>/P
Taking a break to do some laundry and then heading back
out for the afternoon/evening sess. I'm feeling a bit more
back to my old self. Time for me to really work hard on tu
rning, or leaning quicker as soon as I catch a wave. That s
eems to be the biggest obstacle to riding the kind of clean
er waves I desire. It appears that I need to get more comfo
rtable going sideways... Straighter rides always make me en
d up in the foam.
I'm contemplating going back to Black's for the afterno
on. Those waves seem to have more oomph! And people were re
ally nice there. It's just such a bitch to get to!