Man!.... I am really tired! But... it's a good kind
of tired since I was finally able to take a day and just
surf. It's been far too long!

I've been soooo mad about not being able to surf.
And... kind of mad about the cold water.... even though
it's pretty stupid to be mad.... our water is always cold
here. But, I've kinda been made ever since the summer.
It was hard coming home after surfing warm water
every day.

Anyways... today I packed up the car and ran some
errands on the wayto the beach so I could feel a
little better about indulging myself in surfing til sunse
t.

It's been so hard to get away from work these past few
months. And.... it's really taken a heavy toll on me. I've
been quite grouchy and easily irritated. And frankly,
just mad a lot.

When I got to the beach,.,, I was a little concerned
because it looked pretty rough. Lindy is considered a
beginner's beach, but even still.... 4 months of barely
catching waves was enough for me to get my ass handed
to me a few times today. Once in particular when I tried
to take off with some really bad timing and i got sucked
right over the lip. No injuries..... but it was nice of
the surfer guys to check on me... it probably looked
worse than it was.

It was a perfect day in most respects. At first,
I was still pissed that I was having so much trouble just
getting past the inside break. I was angry and thrashing
and fighting. The ocean just kept on coming and really
wore me out til i couldn't even fight or be mad anymore.
When I pushed through and finally made it out to the
lineup and caught a few rides.... I sort of forgot all
about being mad.

I surfed away from the crowd most of the afternoon. But
as the sun was setting... I moved closer to the pack.
I had a nice chat with this longboarder (John) whom
i've met before out there. I have to say... of all the bre
aks
I've tried so far...people here are the friendliest. It wa
s
a good time.

As the afternoon passed...the tide went out and
the waves calmed down.... the water became glassy
and even though the waves were much smaller....
it was just perfect for a tired old lady just trying to
get back into the swing!

It's funny...... how the ocean often seems to know just
what is needed.