Caught a few at my local break this morning.... storm c
oming in, so it started to rain and the wind picked up ny m
idday. The waves actually got better as the wind was blowin
g sideshore and helping to create some peaky lefts. yum!

I had a few wild rides, but still mostly riding foam. I
can't seem to duplicate that perfect first wave. Maybe I t
hink about it too much.... butu more likely... it's the 4 m
onths of almost no waves at all that have set my progress b
ack. My arns are really out of shape for paddling and I get
tired a lot faster than I remember.

School starts back tomorrow. At least after this vacati
on, I'm a little more organized at home. If I can hang in f
or 3 more hellish weeks, I'll be able to head down south fo
r some warmer water.

Despite the cold and the wind...it was great to be back
in the water!
Today was really fun!