So grateful to be back out in the water today! (well yesterday!) Surfed a nice section of beach in Oceanside and was reminded to just make the best use of every day! The water was warm and blue/green, not a cloud in the sky and a really chill vibe. The waves were on the small side. But, every so often, a nice set would roll through. I was able to catch a few rides, nothing spectacular... but after nearly a year of basically no waves...l was just glad to be out there!

I was apprehensive since I haven't been able to close my left eye completely for about 7 months now. I tried swimming in just a pool a couple months back and got out screaming in pain after trying to swim underwater. Man! Having health problems and getting old just totally SUCKS! And, I haven't been dealing with it very well. I've basically been really pissed and depressed and wasting a lot of valuable time "lying in bed, just like Brian Wilson did...".  Not helpful.

Anyways,... I finally got my ass up and headed down south for a surf trip. Car packed up with my tent, bodyboard and ample tunes for the 10 hours drive down the coast. Missed the turn out and stayed on the 101 farther than I'd expected. Instead of the beautiful coastline, I was locked in the valley. Beautiful, but still heightening my anticipation for the sight, smell and feel of the ocean. Then it happened.... somewhere around Carpenteria. I was smiling and admiring the beauty of the great Pacific, when I just became overcome with emotion. As my 135 song, mp3 mix CD shifted to Pato Batan's "Life is a Miracle", I just got a huge lump in my throat and tears welled up. I found myself looking over at the awesome beauty and majesty of the ocean, the power, the depth. And trying to remember the glorious elation of riding a wave,   just made me realize that all the time spent bitching and moaning about how things are... and how they are NOT.... is just a huge waste of time! Life IS a miracle!

Last night, in my tent, I was looking up at the stars and listening to the sounds of trains and trucks as they whizzed by the San Onofre campground. And as I closed my eyes and started to drift off to sleep, muscles tired, mind cleared, I could still feel the rocking of the waves all through my body. Forget all the other bullshit...... THAT feeling makes life worth living!