arashi had some small waves today, it was pretty frequent
when i got there but after an hour or so it got much smalle
r and less frequent, so i got hit with a surfboard again,
again by an inexperienced surfer, last time i was at arashi
it was the fin in my hip, this time it was the nose in my
ankle, so then ofcourse i could only paddle with one foot,
got out, went to andicuri heard there were big swells comin
g in there, so got there after an 30min ride and it was pre
tty big but really close out with allot of current , got 2
right waves but i found it practicle impossible to paddle w
ith my swollen ankle so got out and went home, it was reall
y cold too, really allot of wind, not a bad surfing day ove
rall, and tomorrow its gonna be bigger !!!! so there shoul
d be some clean wrap around swells at arashi , that means a
whole long day of surfing tomorrow !!!!!! yey ,,,