Hi all,
T his morning was a photographers dream
, sadly tho my mate fo rgot my memory card for the camera
( sorry guys for all thos e waiting for pics) so instead le
t me word it to you this w ay. OOOOOHHHH YYYEEEAAAAHH!
B
y the time i got to the bea ch it was about 6:30am with a m
on ster of a king set every 8 mins. Now i've been around fo
r a while but looking down the face of those waves, the sli
ght concave which left free fa ll imminent, well, even I do
gge d way too many.
The Fist: Surfers were way out of th
ere league and quickly realised it too, in order to catch t
hese waves you had to catch the last seconds befo
re t he break. all the surfers fr ee fell into the rock bel
ow an d then left for more calm con ditions. NOT ME, no I p
addled into a wave where the under t oe sucked the face of
the wa ve to about 6 1/2 foot. SPANK T HE MONKEY!
I dro
pped, c ut a rail in and the NMD to ok off. with this
much spe ed i could easily bust through th e lip right.....
.WRONG th e board after travelling up such a large face jus
t ran out of chuff. I tried to push through but something g
rabbed me. FK not the falls again. I fell th rough the wave
which the n picked me up over the lip, I had my eyes close
d cos i tho ught i was under water then. BANG o n my guts.
the next fiv e mins of turbulence don’t bother me unless i
hit something . when i surfaced my flipper saver h ad snapp
ed and my leas h was at my finger tips. "TEZ" i call ed out
, "you gotta ge t your shit on this!"
http://www. sticky beek.com.au/surf/index.asp BAR BEACH PHOTO TW
O THIS IS WHE RE THE SURFERS RETRIETED!!! BUT YO U
CAN STILL SEE THE UNDE R TOE WORK'n ON THE SANDY BOTTOM SU
CKING THE WAVE UP A LIT TLE
(add about 2 or 2 1/2
f oot to the face and th at was what i was riding all this
mor ning!)
Hope this inspires you