I woke up on the exci
ting side of 5am and headed in, by the time i hit the water
it was a little before 6am. It didn't look good, ruff and
inconsistent but after a fight with the rip I was out.. A n
orth east wind was helping push more water into the waves f
or a fat, steep and very fast wave. I had chosen NMD P
layer PE and waited for the set. Here is my chance, a set r
olling in had my name on it, (go left for open face carving
wave) or (go right and hope player is fast enough to beat
the lip) A good push out with my manta fins and a great bot
tom cut from player and i had found myself low in the wave
that was about to offer a barrel.. Oh yeah just tilt and pu
ll up a little and I’m in position. Nuh.. the lip smacked m
e fair in the head and I'm sure it was the first time my to
p lip made it over my nose while the force of the water mad
e an example out of me for trying to take too muc
h!
PS I'm so sick of dolphins pretending they are
sharks and scaring the **** out of me!!