Back from my tasmania trip which lasted three weeks, first
week home i got so sick I had to go to the doctors, I haven
't been sick for 2.5 years.. I was given for one week, pill
s the size of AA batteries. now I'm set for my first s
urf in 5 weeks..... SO Here I'am with my friend about
to jump off the rocks. I jump and paddle away, I look back
at my friend, "com-on mo-fo".. he had jumped straight out o
nto the rock, gutting his $400 BZ type H. It was truely a m
urder seen. I never want to see a board like that again....
such pain. Since my chest infection, I soon realised I coul
dn't hold my breath for more then a duck dive..
I jumpe
d onto a set and the off sore breaze pushed the face up nic
e and steep. Carving up and down to gathering speed, the wa
ve then hits the sand bank kicking up another foot or too a
nd starts to close out. I tried to use the force a
nd punch it past the break but something grabs my leg.. its
my friend and he knows he is too far back in the wave, he&
nbsp;was about to be chood up  and eaten. I look back
at the lip which was now about 10 centermeters from my face
! !!smack!!,, no breath and no strenght, the lip pushe
s me hard down until it pegs me on the sandy bottom. I was
suprisingly calm considering there was a great chance i was
about to drowned. I felt the waves turbulance pick me up a
nd drag me back into the wave, I was upside down and about
to puff out my breath.. then BANG i hit something .. It was
my friend, I grabed the wet suit and the wave passed us by
now that our combined wieght was too heavy for it to throw
us around. I reached the surface and choked for air. I loo
ked at my friend who was looking at me unusually . "I'm rig
ht", I said he...
 his reply was "what were you gra
bing my arse for!!" hahahahahaa