Ok, on th
e local radio there was announcements of "wild

and
dangours surf". Last week, people were being toed

i
nto 12ft waves a t mereweather, so I immediatly bard up

thinking that this m orning was going to be awsome. I


arrived to sunshine, blue sky and a handfull of peo
ple only

and though the reports on the radio said "
the beachs will

be red flagged" the reality was....
......it was abo ut 2ft. I

surfed for 4 hours on sh
ore breakers that had abo ut a 4ft

face, it was fun
even though i had to walk about 3 0mins to
find a rida
ble break.. I've surfed(bb'd) for more then 10

year
s and I'm stoked that no matter what size, if i ts


ridable, i still have the time of my life....