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About that day
Posted On: 09/23/2006 21:09:40
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I was at the beach at 5.50a m an
d was in the water about 6.25am cos it takes a whi l
e t o walk to my break. I paddled out with my BZ Type
P af ter deciding to leave the NMD behind and used my viper
yell ow dot fins which are way too small. I found a comfor
t a ble break and settled into my rythem. I like to carve u
p an d down and maybe a few lip tp base cutbacks but n
ot in t erested in anything that breaks the flow of the wav
e or my speed like spinners etc. Not 15mins into it two old
er fell as rock up and cast 4 fishing lines right into my b
reak! It s not the first time this has happemed to me, a 3k
m beach to play with and they need my spot, needless to say
this ju st added a new dimention to BBing. Carving a wave
a nd du ck ing under and over the line streched into waves
wa s fun a n d they didnt seem to mind either.
So I
ke eped surfing a nd a freak set came in and i had to padd
le l ike crazy to g et into position. I made it to the pitc
h of the break and took off, FARK I havent ridden a wave th
at l asted that long for a long time. It was so good I rode
it to shore and thi s is when i relised i had ridden about
400m eters down the beach.(I will take a photo from where
it s tarted to where i w as next week)..
It was truely a
monumental ride, however , soon after this happened 15 + s
urfe rs and bodyboarder s tu rned up on this break. The fis
herme n had left and all that was left was me, my mate and
two su rfer with which we had a unspoken agreement.. a wave
each a nd line up and give way!
This gr
oup of mofo's all just spewed out in to the break without a
nyconsid eration to the form of the br eak an d the people
who bothe red to go in earlier . I was ready to <
>BRtake them all on (as in smash some respect into the
se ass-hats)
The surfer just said well F% this
and went in and I suggested we do the same.
As i rode i
n (over them as many as i could) and gave them di
rty l ooks (cos I wanted to beat the snot out of the m) I n
otice d a shore break further down, so i took my own a dvic
e (this is a big beach so lets try somewhere else)
W e ended up on the fat-ests 4ft ful l barrells all t
o our s elves, its been soooo long since i have been a full
body le ngth into a barrel. It was so good I keeped g
oi ng unt il my body could take no more. No feeling in
my toes & two leg cramps and a giant tur d ready to dr
op anker.
cant help but think i was me nt to go the
re in the first place?
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