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Dont eat coco pops 4 breakfast!
Posted On: 10/06/2006 18:28:10
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Its 5am and I'm feeling a little
flat so I decide to have a small amount of coco pops for a
sugar hit. Fast forward to 6:30am and I have just finished
paddling the mad run out to the sets which are barrelling
righthanders about 5ft. I ducked dived one set and must hav
e put a half arse effort into it cos it dragged me back an
d smashed me hard. I hadn't taken a deep breath cos i thoug
h t i would just blast out the other side and when i got ba
ck up three more sets worked on me.
this is how
t he day started, I paddled like crazy and made it behind
the break where i decided to recover and try to get my ryth
em b ack. The coco pops are fighting me too by this stage a
nd wa s feeling like crap. my mate made it out and we decid
ed that our problem at this point was that we were thinking
three steps too far ahead. Because of the difficulty getti
ng out (cos there was no channel) we where thinking how to
get off the wave we were tryng to catch, consequently we we
re not catching anything.
Another set started to
roll i n and was breaking right on top of us, by now I was
totaled and just tryed to drive down under the wave but ag
ain was dragged into the break. I had nothing left, my card
io is sh ot and i could feel my pulse in just about every p
art of my body, I was just waiting for the aneurysm. My mat
e came ov er to rest after the bombardment of sets with me
out in the swell of the ocean WAY behind the sets where i p
rocceeded to feel like death UNTIL....
A small b
urp and a strong convolsion from my guts projected the coco
pops (exe rcist style, mouth wide open chunder streem in t
he middle) out into the ocean
Man thats what i n
eeded and i n 5 mins I was catching the fattest right hande
r tucked in tight in a barrel that thundered the lip of the
wave on the water. What a sound
The NMD is an a
mazing board and only spat the rail out once when i was rid
ing to high on the board. I can't wait to catch waves like
this on the new underwater digi 7.1mpx
Anyway e
nded the day with a cramped hamstring and thigh so i couldn
't stretch o ne out without the other locking out, all in a
ll it was an off day considering the size of the surf. My n
ew pod2 did r eally well in the larger surf but take soooo
much effort to push...just got to tuffen up
DONT
EAT COCO POPS BEFORE SURF!!
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