Had the funnest, scariest and smelliest surf last nite
.  Finally got home after heading to chch for the wken
d and went straight to the beach.  Wave trap was consi
stently doin its thang so I suited up and paddled over the
river to get some brown goodness.  Caught a few waves
and realised that it got a bit sketchy on the inside - basi
cally do or die.  Spent most of my time on the Knee.&n
bsp; Then I got this one that I knew was gonna pit on the i
nside.  Late drop so I had to go the gut, dropped down
chucked in a reverse then set up for the baz.  Didn't
really get pitted.  But then I noticed the section.&n
bsp; Looked at the lip - then back at the rocks - back at t
he lip and thought 'fu*k it'.  Hit it, tweaked an inny
, landed and then got dragged over the poo infested rocks.&
nbsp; Luckily I didn't get hurt, got cramp in both legs tho
.

  As I was sitting out the back my thoughts d
rifted to my mate Johnny who had just recently severed his
spine whilst surfing (stand up) in Bali.  I went and v
isited him the day b4 this surf.  It was sooo heart-br
eaking to see my mate sitting in an electric chair paralyse
d from the chest down, helpless and breathless. 
Should I have punted that inny on my last wave?  I cou
ld've ended up like Johnny, all the time in the world, stru
ggling with demons, unable to clean himself - paralysed.&nb
sp; Its the little things in life that we all take for gran
ted, like walking or even scratching your own arse.  M
y thoughts are with you Johnny.  Heres to a speedy rec
overy.