Went to Avila Beach today and got a
session in which turned out to be better than expected. Avi
la is not one of the hot spots and is usually one small clo
seout. Today however there where some nice left handers whi
ch made for a fun day. Waves were waist to shoulder high, a
nd a few times during the session there were some double up
s! It was only me and a good friend Jorge, we had it all to
ourselves. Had some lady ask me the stupid age old questio
n, "what about the sharks". What about the sharks, if you g
et eaten you get eaten. Obviously she had never b
een surfing of any kind and did not understand. It made me
laugh. Ha Ha.