Went sponging this morning and it wa
s not too bad.  There was a good wind swell in the wat
er averaging waist to chest high but the period was under 1
0 sec.  Everyone was having trouble taking off today e
specially the surfers because the wave was soooo steep.&nbs
p; You would start to paddle and then you were free falling
, and then boom you were off.  The bottom would just s
uck right out from underneath you.  Took one bad wipe
out; air dropped into the wave on take off and pearled the
nose and then preceded to get rag dolled for a bit.  O
uch!  It was a good session wipe out and all.