Went to Hawaii, the island of Oahu t
o be specific, a couple of weeks ago, and managed to g
et a few sessions in. Best place I sponged was "the w
all", was lucky to catch a good south swell one of the days
and it was going off, not crowded either for the dawn patr
ol session. Checked out "Sandies" and when I go back
will probably go in there if it is not too big. Makap
u looked good too, so I guess I am going to have to go back
so I can sponge both of those places.
Now back in C
ali the wind has been ferocious and the surf has had a lot
of bump on it lately, just not good conditions. Hopef
ully my surf crew and I can find some clean conditions tomo
rrow.
On another note I met a girl, and we have been
going out, and I think I am falling for her. We just
click and she surfs too, besides she is gorgeous! I
guess the best things come along when you are not looking f
or them.
Peace to everyone out there and keep rippin
.