great waves, surfed at 9am this morn, kinda late start, alt
hough the "mulchy" look started to glass off, 4- 5 ft Hawai
ian size, average of 4 people out trading off pits, not a p
erson in sight. later in the evening was super fun again, l
ess consistent but still had, hard to explain and describe
the scenerio of "early season" but empty lineups with all t
he Bruddahz, we(Hawaii locals) wish that it stays that
way throughout all winter. so in kinder wordz, Foreign Obj
ects and People shouldn't come to Hawaii and expect to "fit
in" to our line-ups. we are not inviting your clutter, so
stay the fuck home. yes i'm Happy... HappyZ